# Welcome ``` Welcome to the User Manual for the the QuadFusion print head. This manual is hosted in GitHub.com and managed via GitBook.com. Please feel free to add suggestions to any of the guides by creating a pull request or issue on [GitHub](https://github.com/PrintM3D/Quad-Fusion-Docs/issues). ``` NEW - July 2019 WalkThrough / Crash Course: For users setting up their quad head for the first time and looking to gain a deep understanding of the system to get the best results, start [here](https://coda.io/d/M3D-Official-Troubleshooting-Self-Help-Guide_dzE73kMbIAL/Quad-Expert-Crash-Course_sudLH#_luBEE). Steps/mm: For users setting up QuadFusion heads on their own system, important information can be found [here](/getting-started/updating-control-board-settings). **This user manual is a work in progress and may contain incomplete or incorrect information. Please exercise caution with the information contained herein. This message will be removed as the guide matures.** If you are a complete beginner to 3D printing, please start at the [Beginner Guides](/beginner-guides). If you are a more experienced 3D printer user, [Get Started Here](https://m3d.gitbook.io/m3d-quadfusion-documentation/getting-started). This guide will get you set-up and walk you through your first print. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LINHOxT1QYkIQrZVkn7%2F-LINIZklBh0ONEz4a-FA%2FQuadForCrane_MetLettering_1_copy.jpg?alt=media\&token=37d99759-3407-4649-9f60-061c300a1705) ## Contributing The main way to collaborate to the guides is to become a collaborator. But sometimes you simply want to submit a small contribution, without becoming a regular collaborator. On GitHub, one can use the popular *Pull Request* feature. To do so, you would clone , make changes on your own copy, and submit back your changes by submitting a *Pull Request* to M3D. Then we will review the changes accordingly. Thank you! # Facebook Group **M3D QuadFusion and Dual Owners Group** an Unofficial Community Run Group, Officially supported by M3D. Are you a M3D Quad or Dual Owner? Do you have interest in being one? Then check out the Lively Group of M3D Quad/Dual Owners who are all active and available to interact with. Technical Help, Moral Support and Team Work Drives this community, where their moto is "Help One Another, Encourage and Create Awesome!" * General Product *FAQs* * Troubleshooting * Printable Files, SD Card images, Sample Slicer Settings and more... Please visit the [M3D QuadFusion and Dual Owners Group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/287867492126710) for more information. # Getting Started Follow the guides in this Getting Started chapter of the QuadFusion 3D Print Head Docs to properly configure your printer and start printing! ## Table of Contents {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z-yLFZ5KoHziRGL" %} [Critical Warnings & Information](/getting-started/critical-warnings-and-information) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJF7vmlyQWUHxOY5KQ\_" %} [Unboxing & Inventory](/getting-started/unboxing-and-inventory) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJFBYsNFscDcaakksd\_" %} [Getting Connected](/getting-started/getting-connected) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0QL4vuNogdYMTA" %} [Updating Firmware](/getting-started/updating-firmware) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z01sVOuBWb7nDT3" %} [Updating your Control Board Settings](/getting-started/updating-control-board-settings) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z03k6Dp9UCmTc-4" %} [Changing Homing Offsets](/getting-started/homing-the-printer) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEhd1zy\_u76myDXcCN" %} [First Print](/getting-started/first-print) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0Az3Jcojduah2t" %} [Getting Started: Where to Go From Here](/getting-started/getting-started-where-to-go-from-here) {% endcontent-ref %} * [Critical Warnings & Information](/getting-started/critical-warnings-and-information): Contains important warnings and information about using the QuadFusion. * [Unboxing & Assembly](/getting-started): A step-by-step guide to unbox your QuadFusion and assemble the shipped components. * [Getting Connected](/getting-started/getting-connected): A generic guide to setting up your QuadFusion. * [Updating Firmware](/getting-started/updating-firmware): A walk through on how to update your Duet Maestro's firmware. * [Updating your Control Board Settings](/getting-started/updating-control-board-settings): Contains important information to understand the specs on you QuadFusion. * [Changing Homing Offsets](/getting-started/homing-the-printer): A guide that goes through the new offsets for your QuadFusion. * [First Print](/getting-started/first-print): A guide that helps you print a simple print to check setup. * [Getting Started: Where to Go From Here](/getting-started/getting-started-where-to-go-from-here) # Critical Warnings & Information The M3D QuadFusion 3D Print Head is an industrial product. The user assumes all responsibility for proper operation and acknowledges that they understand the operation and standard practices of additive manufacturing. The user assumes all responsibility for its proper use and agrees to follow the directives below to ensure a safe and working unit before any other operation. ## Warnings 1. DO NOT TOUCH PRINT HEAD WHILE OPERATING The QuadFusion is a powerful industrial machine. While the QuadFusion is moving or printing you should not reach into the buildspace. 2. USE UNDER SUPERVISION Place the printer in a place where nothing can catch on fire should the worst occur. The QuadFusion 3D Print Head is constructed out of metal and fireproof materials. Still, PLA and other filaments can burn and cause a fire if the print head is used improperly. 3. MAXIMUM EXTRUDER SPEED Don't extrude faster than 5.6 mm^3/s with any filament in extruder to start. Get success first with no skipping then try to push the limits. Do the math: 45mm/s movement, 0.3 mm layers and 0.5 mm wide would be 6.75mm^3/s , a bit to fast for your first print, especially with pla. So adjust layer heights accordingly, for example to 0.25mm high for your first prints. Over time you should be able to print faster. Remember that speed depends on material, number of print moves per second, nozzle type and temperature. 4. BURN HAZARD NOZZLES may cause burns when hot. 5. WATCH THE FAN The cold section fan is spinning very fast when the system is on. Please keep tools and yourself clear of it when it is operational. ## Next up 1. Continue on to the [Unboxing & Assembly](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/unboxing-and-assembly), the next chapter in the [Getting Started](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started) guide. # Unboxing & Inventory # Getting Connected Overall, there are three main things you must complete in order to use your QuadFusion: **Step One:** You must mount your QuadFusion to whatever printer you are using. Depending on the printer you have, you may need to design a mount for your QuadFusion. **Step Two:** The base QuadFusion has six connections that need to be made. Four of the connectors (yellow) are for each of the motors that move gears inside the QuadFusion in order to feed filament. The red wire (green) on the QuadFusion is the heater wire, and the white wire (red) is the thermistor. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtVL_9Ws6sIslJOyu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a711d3e7-e6c6-4177-9b2a-f6d928b572a0) **Step Three:** Lastly, you will need to update your firmware settings\ Go to these guides for more information about updating your firmware: [Updating Firmware](/getting-started/updating-firmware) and [Updating your Control Board Settings](/getting-started/updating-control-board-settings) # Updating Firmware Updating your firmware can be important to obtain the latest features and bug fixes. The Duet Maestro board uses a fork of RepRap firmware to control a 3D printer. The latest firmware can be found on DC42's [GitHub Page](https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases). There you can download the *.bin* firmware files and, most importantly, read the change log. Note that some firmware releases are experimental and will be classified as an early-release. This means there is a higher risk of unintended bugs in the firmware version. **Warning: Updating your firmware can cause unintended consequences. Be aware that upgrading or downgrading to unstable firmware versions can cause unexpected bugs and issues. Use caution!** ## Identifying Firmware Version In order to find out if you want to update the firmware on the Duet Maestro you need to find your current version. You can view the RepRap firmware version in the Duet Web Console Settings Tab. Alternatively, you can use `M122`, command `M122` is the diagnose/debug command for RepRap firmware. If you send command `M122` the board will display a lot of debug statistics. In the first few lines the board will print out what firmware version it is running. Based on your firmware version, you might be able to identify if you are encountering a specific bug. Check DC42's github page regularly in order to read the latest firmware changes and see if any would be useful to you. ![Checking the RepRap Firmware Version](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtZ4Gn_qFx58qQCD%2F7f3tzsd7jhrwm9se-firmwareversionid.png?generation=1532553045891814\&alt=media) ## Upgrading System Firmware via the Duet Web Console 1. Download the desired firmware version from DC42's github page. This will be a *.bin* or binary file called *DuetMaestroFirmware.bin*. 2. Download the *iap4s.bin* file, this is necessary in order to update the firmware. 3. Go to the settings tab of the Duet Web Console and find the *Upload File(s)* button. Note: this is not for uploading prints. Files uploaded here will be stored in the *sys/* directory of the microSD card. Upload the *iap4s.bin* and *DuetMaestroFirmware.bin* files. ![aosmza6ID0m8KJ7A-uploadsysfiles.png](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtZ7ku16xCCvP6tL%2Faosmza6id0m8kj7a-uploadsysfiles.png?generation=1532553044264527\&alt=media) 4. Once both files are uploaded successfully, go to the *G-code Console*. Send the command `M997 S0`. This will begin the process of upgrading Duet firmware. 5. When the firmware upgrade is completed, you can visit the *Settings* tab in order to ensure that the *Firmware Version* has been updated to the preferred version. 6. If you prefer, you can now delete the *iap4s.bin* and *DuetMaestroFirmware.bin* files from the *sys/* directory. ## Other Resources 1. [Duet 3D Wiki: Updating and Installing Firmware](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware) 2. [Duet3D Forum](https://forum.duet3d.com/): For firmware and Duet specific questions 3. [Duet Fork of RepRap Firmware](https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware) # Updating your Control Board Settings The QuadFusion requires printer electronics capable of running four independent extruder motor channels, either natively via the printer's control board or with an attached expansion board. If you are running your QuadFusion from a Duet 2 Maestro plus Extruder Expansion Board, configuration files are available for several printers on which we've tested the Quad Fusion. These files can be found in [GitHub](https://github.com/PrintM3D/QuadFusion). Be careful when first using these files! While they have common settings for printer geometry, end stops, etc. these settings may not correspond to your printer exactly, and using the files without reviewing the settings could damage your printer or the QuadFusion head. For a walk through on adjusting necessary settings before running your printer, see our [Firmware Guides](https://quadfusion.printm3d.com/firmware-guides). If you are setting up a Duet 2 Maestro manually or running your QuadFusion from alternate electronics, here are the basics of the QuadFusion design you'll need to get up and running: * Motor current: 500 mA peak\ The motors are designed for the best combination of extrusion force and thermal performance when operating in the range 480 - 525 mA. We suggest setting your extruder motor current (all four channels!) at 500 mA as a starting point. Do not run your motors above 525 mA as they will self-heat and can cause damage to themselves or the rest of your printer.
* Extruder steps per millimeter: 984 microsteps/mm at a microstep setting of 8x\ We recommend getting started at 8x microstepping. Higher microstepping can offer some benefits to print quality when mixing at disparate ratios, but may present difficulty for control boards with low maximum step rates. For more information on the step rates achievable on various electronics, see [this article](https://reprap.org/wiki/Step_rates) on the RepRap wiki.
* Temperature sensor: PT1000, resistance at room temperature is 1050 Ω\ In addition, if you are setting up the QuadFusion on a Duet 2 Maestro, note that the series resistance (of voltage divider feeding the chip's ADC for temperature reading purposes) is 2200 Ω. # Changing Homing Offsets More details coming soon. # First Print ## Heating your QuadFusion print head for the first time: It's important to heat your QuadFusion print head to 235C and allow it to sit for several minuets BEFORE your first print. This will allow you to not only determine if the print head has been connected properly, but it will also allow it to prime for it's first use. Since this is the VERY first time the QuadFusion head has been heated, it may emit an odor. This odor should be slight and it should dissipate within a few minutes. Please make sure your work area is well ventilated during the first heating of your QuadFusion print head. # Getting Started: Where to Go From Here Now that you have completed the Getting Started guides. You are ready to go. Consider reading the following guides as you learn more about the QuadFusion and its functionalities. * [Supported Printers](/supported-printers): For more specific information on how to mount the QuadFusion * [M3D Crane](/supported-printers/m3d-crane) * [M3D ProMega](/supported-printers/m3d-promega) * [CR-10S](/supported-printers/cr-10s) * [Prusa i3 MK2S](/supported-printers/prusa-i3-mk2s) * [Duet3D G-code Wiki](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode): All supported G-code commands * [Duet Maestro Wiring](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHJUCJ_8YzW4nrKjE3M/electrical-guides/duet-maestro-wiring): Explanation on just wiring the Duet Maestro Board. * [Macros](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHJUCJ_8YzW4nrKjE3M/firmware-guides/macros): Learn more about macro files and how they can make your life easier. * [Repair Guides](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHJUCJ_8YzW4nrKjE3M/repair-guides): The chapter that can fix all your problems (hopefully). * [Maintenance Guides](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHJUCJ_8YzW4nrKjE3M/maintenance-guides): Maintain the printer! # Printer Installation The QuadFusion is a versatile 3D print head, so it is very likely that it will be able to adapt to whatever printer you have at home. At M3D we have mounted the QuadFusion on many different types of printers. The following guides will show you how we attached the QuadFusion not only mechanically, but electrically as well. {% hint style="info" %} The QuadFusion is compatible with most 3D printers, including those not listed here! {% endhint %} {% hint style="warning" %} **Disclaimer: Some of the printers listed are NOT M3D products. We would like to make it clear that we have no affiliation with these printers or the companies that made them.** {% endhint %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEkEUtAmA\_\_AQMDzC0" %} [M3D Crane](/supported-printers/m3d-crane) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEkF3D7-yTJCHry4nw" %} [M3D ProMega](/supported-printers/m3d-promega) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEkDx8tR7XRdc\_PGKF" %} [CR-10S](/supported-printers/cr-10s) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEkFTOwZaTFM4hgVc5" %} [Prusa i3 MK2S](/supported-printers/prusa-i3-mk2s) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0Mt\_p66b\_skWZk" %} [Duet Maestro Wiring](/supported-printers/duet-maestro-wiring) {% endcontent-ref %} # M3D Crane This guide will go through the process of hooking up your QuadFusion to M3D's Crane 3D printer. ## Mechanically ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIvvhklTyCXkPWZdJMY%2F-LIw-5iQHIX4OqSpyr2y%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=42a2c2d5-ad54-430a-8349-f8772fcd07f4) **You will need...**\ **-** 3mm Hex Standoffs (\_\_\_\_mm long) (x2) **Tools...**\ **-** 2.0mm Hex Screwdriver\ **-** 3.0mm Hex Screwdriver\ **-** Pliers If you look behind your Crane, you should see the mount that is already fixated upon it: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgwgtBn7QUBlTKEGsV%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830478821578\&alt=media) Undo the circled wheel using the 3.0mm Hex Screwdriver and the Pliers ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJJzyq3osCa2b_5XGxY%2F-LJK-N5b1plkSMORKxwC%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=e829850f-6a3d-4107-8268-9fc6d57c93f3) Once you have removed the bottom wheel, unscrew the two circled screws on the back of the mount. Next, attach the two standoffs to the QuadFusion: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJKDvSCtxIdNh4r0_oA%2F-LJKLbrMD8YnWpXXw8XG%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a7cf9f87-2959-4e12-9ad2-6b2d24d0fe87) Finally, thread the 2.0mm Hex Screws into the standoffs, and mount the QuadFusion head onto the Crane. ## Electrically **You will need...**\ **-** 24V Power Supply\ **-** Duet Maestro Board\ **-** Duet Maestro Expansion Board\ **-** Jumper **Tools**\ **-** Flat-Head Screwdriver This is the Duet Maestro: ![https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet\_2\_Maestro\_Hardware\_Overview](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw2magjFcFqKhbZF5Z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465487126\&alt=media) This will be a walk through on how we hooked up the QuadFusion, as well as part of the Crane, to the Duet Maestro board. Before you can begin to wire your QuadFusion to the Duet Maestro board you must attach an extension to the board. With this extension you will be able to connect the the extra motor wires to the board. The following pictures show where the extension goes, and how it looks once it has been plugged in: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgvGJ_tRbD1ulR_77M%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830491221856\&alt=media) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtHQynqc5UQJLyMNo%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=44e18104-a95e-4aa5-a706-31092fecafae) ### Base Connections ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtVL_9Ws6sIslJOyu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a711d3e7-e6c6-4177-9b2a-f6d928b572a0) Without the fans, the QuadFusion has six main wires coming from it. The four wires with yellow dots at the ends are the motor wires. The wire with a green dot is the heater wire, and lastly the wire with the red dot is the PT1000 (or thermistor). The wires plug in to their corresponding color that is boxed in the following picture: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJG3WHI0GG4Zg8lnso7%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830464537430\&alt=media) Notes: * Keep in mind when you're wiring your QuadFusion's motors to the Duet Maestro board which motor is connected to which port. The first picture in this guide labels each port as E0 Stepper, E1 Stepper, E2 External Driver, and E3 External Driver. When facing the front of your QuadFusion, the front left motor is 0, the front right motor is 2, the back left motor is 1, and the back right motor is 3. * If you decide to extend the wires given to you, make sure that you are maintaining the original positive and negative wires. # M3D ProMega Refer to the [Promega Quad Documentation](http://promega.printm3d.com/quad/repair-and-maintenance/quad-add-on). # CR-10S This guide will go through the process of hooking up your QuadFusion to Creality's CR-10S printer. {% hint style="warning" %} There is no affiliation between M3D/The QuadFusion and Creality 3D/The CR-10. {% endhint %} ## Mechanically ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJFNPLij-pjY5tFHzcu%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830473301151\&alt=media) **You will need...**\ **-** 3.0mm Standoff (25mm long) (x2)\ **-** 2.0mm Hex Screws (x2) **Tools**\ **-** Pliers\ **-** 3.0mm Hex Screwdriver\ **-** 2.0mm Hex Screwdriver Once you have removed the extruder that comes with the CR-10S, you will want to take of the mounting plate and drill holes using these specs: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJF09Ev3yPew4V-buGA%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465693118\&alt=media) Alternatively you can print and use this stencil to ensure the drill holes are correctly aligned: {% file src="/files/-LX1HBqaZDzWB5pi7z7m" %} CR-10 Quad Stencil {% endfile %} Place the newly drilled plate back on to your CR-10S, attach the top two wheels if you removed them. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJFUpJShSfObRusVgvp%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830500417732\&alt=media) Next, thread the two 2.0mm Hex Screws through the holes you have just drilled. Once you have done this, you will want to attach the two 25mm long standoffs to the QuadFusion head. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJKDvSCtxIdNh4r0_oA%2F-LJKLbrMD8YnWpXXw8XG%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a7cf9f87-2959-4e12-9ad2-6b2d24d0fe87) You can now, by threading the 2.0mm Hex Screws into the standoffs, mount the QuadFusion head onto the CR-10S. Lastly, attach the bottom wheel: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJP2NUk5DwJPQ2gb7Jf%2F-LJP30qJJq77jilKMhcq%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=7b1b0dd7-3848-4888-b222-bef3e48b8b2f) You have now fully attached the QuadFusion to your CR-10S. ## Electrically {% hint style="info" %} You will need a Duet Maestro board if you wish to follow along during the electrical part of this guide. Look at the bottom of the page to see where to get one. {% endhint %} {% hint style="info" %} Go to this link: if you want to print a Duet Holder. These can be very helpful with protecting and organizing your Duet Maestro! {% endhint %} **You will need...**\ **-** 24V Power Supply\ **-** Duet Maestro Board\ **-** Duet Maestro Expansion Board\ **-** Jumper **Tools**\ **-** Flat-Head Screwdriver This is the Duet Maestro: ![https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet\_2\_Maestro\_Hardware\_Overview](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw2magjFcFqKhbZF5Z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465487126\&alt=media) This will be a walk through on how to connect the QuadFusion & CR-10 to your Duet Maestro Board with the Extruder Expansion board. Before you can begin to wire your QuadFusion to the Duet Maestro board you must attach an extension to the board. With this extension you will be able to connect the the extra motor wires to the board. The following pictures show where the extension goes, and how it looks once it has been plugged in: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgvGJ_tRbD1ulR_77M%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830491221856\&alt=media) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtHQynqc5UQJLyMNo%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=44e18104-a95e-4aa5-a706-31092fecafae) Additionally, you will need to attach a jumper to the pins next to the expansion board: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJJhHA8L_HJIOU8QlgY%2F-LJJjIWMc-vhpqIeBKUB%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=139a1751-27be-4df6-83ea-98605718d938) ### Base Connections ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtVL_9Ws6sIslJOyu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a711d3e7-e6c6-4177-9b2a-f6d928b572a0) Without the fans, the QuadFusion has six main wires coming from it. The four wires with yellow dots at the ends are the motor wires. The wire with a green dot is the heater wire, and lastly the wire with the red dot is the thermistor. The wires plug in to their corresponding color that is boxed in the following picture: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJG3WHI0GG4Zg8lnso7%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830464537430\&alt=media) Notes: * Keep in mind when you're wiring your QuadFusion's motors to the Duet Maestro board which motor is connected to which port. The first picture in this guide labels each port as E0 Stepper, E1 Stepper, E2 External Driver, and E3 External Driver. When facing the front of your QuadFusion, the front left motor is 0, the front right motor is 2, the back left motor is 1, and the back right motor is 3. * If you decide to extend the wires given to you, make sure that you are maintaining the original positive and negative wires. The next steps will be to connect your CR-10S' stepper motors, power source, limit switches, and Z-probe {% hint style="warning" %} The CR-10S we worked with used a Z-probe instead of the Z-limit switch the printer came with. Additionally, we ended up having the bed heated separately, which will be explained within the guide. {% endhint %} Starting with the stepper motors, there are four motors you should be hooking up. One for the X-Stepper motor, one for the Y-Stepper motor, and two for the Z-Stepper motors. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgqZ9ixSByEwS9v3fD%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830482374861\&alt=media) If you look above, the boxed sections are where you will be plugging in your stepper motors. The color coordination is as follows;\ Yellow = X-Stepper Motor\ Orange = Y-Stepper Motor\ Green = Z-Stepper Motors Once you have plugged these in you can move on to connecting the power supply. **You will need a 24V power supply** to power your Duet Maestro board ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPw7V-4H2K57OMc2O%2Fimage%20\(32\).png?generation=1533830485257170\&alt=media) The three circled wires are what will be connecting your power supply to an outlet. The non circled wires are what will be connected to your Duet Maestro board {% hint style="info" %} We recommend having an on/off switch between the power supply and Duet Maestro board, this makes it easier to turn your printer on and off. {% endhint %} ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPx0K65AzAbTpDjsW%2Fimage%20\(81\).png?generation=1533830488151737\&alt=media) The red and black wires will be connected to ports 3 and 4, respectively, as shown in the image above. Lastly, you'll need to connect the Z-probe and limit switches. Starting with the limit switches: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPx0Mlf3qdsrSZgFS%2Fimage%20\(41\).png?generation=1533830489486747\&alt=media) The picture above shows where each limit switch should be connected. Color coordination is as follows;\ Yellow = X-Limit Switch\ Red = Y-Limit Switch\ Aqua = Z-Limit Switch Now, if you are using a Z-probe as we did, you will be connecting the probe to the Duet Maestro board based off of your probe's specific wiring Go here to understand how Duet wires Z-probes to their boards:\ Choosing a Z-probe: \ Connecting a Z-probe: **Attaching the LCD Screen** To attach the LCD screen to your Duet Maestro you will need to use these ribbon cables provided in the upgrade kit given to you. You will plug the cables into the Duet Maestro in ports labeled "Future Expandability" ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw2magjFcFqKhbZF5Z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465487126\&alt=media) Finally, attach the cables to your LCD screen. **Heating the Bed** The bed was wired separately from the main collection of wires because of the power supply. The QuadFusion requires a 24V power supply in order to properly power the motors, heater, and thermistor. However, the bed could only be safely powered by 12V, so it was decided to have the bed remain wired to Creality's original board. Because of this, you will be able to heat your bed from the control block that comes with the printer, as opposed to heating with the Duet Web Control. Don't have something that is listed here? Check out these links if you need something for the QuadFusion! 24V power supply: \ Duet Maestro Board: \ Extruder Expansion Board: \ Toggle Switch: Thank you for supporting the QuadFusion, and Happy Printing! # Prusa i3 MK2S This guide will go through the process of hooking up your QuadFusion to Prusa's i3 MK2S printer. {% hint style="warning" %} There is no affiliation between M3D/The QuadFusion and Prusa/The i3 MK2S {% endhint %} ## Mechanically The Prusa i3 MK2S requires an entirely new extruder mount in order to mount the QuadFusion. The new mount is very similar to the old, only a few things were shifted around to accommodate the new extruder. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIvPwzBBD2FveRSxt5W%2F-LIvQOObjtYHIX7mt1VM%2FIMG_1390.jpg?alt=media\&token=3f5a31c9-66f3-4e80-aa8a-c7bfa3126c0a) **You will need...**\ **-** 3mm Hex Standoffs (20mm long) (x2)\ **-** 3mm Hex Screw (33mm long) (x2)\ **-** QuadFusion Mount (Downloadable under "STL File(s)") **-** Zip-ties (x6) **Tools...**\ **-** 2.5mm Hex Screwdriver ![Front](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJPfRUhlqscIxROZFJw%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830497372883\&alt=media) The front of the mount has 4 holes, screw the two 20mm long standoffs into the 2 lower holes, as shown in the image below ![Back](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIvUYdg7JTb_OsJ0K30%2F-LIvUgUIc99DYSVkS83Y%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=647670c2-d75a-432a-9f3a-2b2db82148e0) The back of the mount shows where it will be mounted to the Prusa. The lower X-belt will lie across the ledge of the mount. While the upper X-belt will be wrapped around the two protruding cylinders. You can tighten the X-belt by wrapping more of the belt around the cylinder, as shown in the picture above.\ Additionally, the mount is attached to the Prusa using six zip-ties. Theses zip-ties can be routed through designated holes that the mount contains. Lastly, using the 33mm long Hex Screws, thread the screw into the QuadFusion till the come out the other end and thread into the standoffs. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIguBRp_gaXJqKo7A1J%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830494096934\&alt=media) You have now fully attached the QuadFusion to your i3 MK2S. **STL File(s):** {% file src="/files/-LNVY8\_BtqE5WyJMFGTd" %} Prusa\_Quad\_Mount {% endfile %} ## **Electrically** {% hint style="info" %} You will need a Duet Maestro board if you wish to follow along during the electrical part of this guide. Look at the bottom of the page to see where to get one. {% endhint %} {% hint style="info" %} Go to this link: if you want to print a Duet Holder. These can be very helpful with protecting and organizing your Duet Maestro! {% endhint %} **You will need...**\ **-** 24V Power Supply\ **-** Duet Maestro Board\ **-** Duet Maestro Expansion Board\ **-** Jumper\ **-** Terminal board **Tools**\ **-** Flat-Head Screwdriver This is the Duet Maestro: ![https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet\_2\_Maestro\_Hardware\_Overview](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw2magjFcFqKhbZF5Z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465487126\&alt=media) This will be a walk through on how to connect the QuadFusion, as well as part of the i3 MK2S, to the Duet Maestro board. Before you can begin to wire your QuadFusion to the Duet Maestro board you must attach an extension to the board. With this extension you will be able to connect the the extra motor wires to the board. The following pictures show where the extension goes, and how it looks once it has been plugged in: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgvGJ_tRbD1ulR_77M%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830491221856\&alt=media) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtHQynqc5UQJLyMNo%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=44e18104-a95e-4aa5-a706-31092fecafae) Additionally, you will need to attach a jumper to the pins next to the expansion board: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJJhHA8L_HJIOU8QlgY%2F-LJJjIWMc-vhpqIeBKUB%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=139a1751-27be-4df6-83ea-98605718d938) ### Base Connections ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtVL_9Ws6sIslJOyu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a711d3e7-e6c6-4177-9b2a-f6d928b572a0) Without the fans, the QuadFusion has six main wires coming from it. The four wires with yellow dots at the ends are the motor wires. The wire with a green dot is the heater wire, and lastly the wire with the red dot is the thermistor. The wires plug in to their corresponding color that is boxed in the following picture: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJG3WHI0GG4Zg8lnso7%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830464537430\&alt=media) Notes: * Keep in mind when you're wiring your QuadFusion's motors to the Duet Maestro board which motor is connected to which port. The first picture in this guide labels each port as E0 Stepper, E1 Stepper, E2 External Driver, and E3 External Driver. When facing the front of your QuadFusion, the front left motor is 0, the front right motor is 2, the back left motor is 1, and the back right motor is 3. * If you decide to extend the wires given to you, make sure that you are maintaining the original positive and negative wires. The next steps will be to connect your i3 MK2S' stepper motors, power source, limit switches and Z-probe. {% hint style="info" %} The bed is not connected to the Duet Maestro board, this will be further explained in this guide. {% endhint %} Starting with the stepper motors, each one will plug into one of these highlighted ports: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgqZ9ixSByEwS9v3fD%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830482374861\&alt=media) The color coordination is as follows;\ Yellow = X-Stepper Motor\ Orange = Y-Stepper Motor\ Green = Z-Stepper Motors {% hint style="warning" %} The original connectors on the i3 MK2S' electrical board are not compatible with the Duet Maestro. We recommend cutting off the locking mechanisms on each connector since they interfer with plugging the wires into the Duet Maestro. {% endhint %} The next step is to wire the limit switches and Z-probe to these highlighted ports: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJFxUlrppaVCyWhHk4v%2F-LJG0eWPPik57pvEUWAI%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=849be827-cd00-48d0-a29e-19548315a5ca) The picture above shows where each limit switch and the Z-probe should be connected. Color coordination is as follows;\ Yellow = X-Limit Switch\ Red = Y-Limit Switch\ Green = Z-Probe When attaching the Z-probe you will need to use some Dupont connectors in order to properly connect it to the Duet Maestro: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgvRbrQ14tcCtlS24g%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830499339921\&alt=media) Color coordination is as follows:\ The black wire represents the Z-probe's black wire\ The grey wire represents the Z-probe's blue wire\ The brown wire represents the Z-probe's brown wire After plugging these in you can move on to connecting the power supply. **You will need a 24V power supply** to power your Duet Maestro board ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPw7V-4H2K57OMc2O%2Fimage%20\(32\).png?generation=1533830485257170\&alt=media) The three circled wires are what will be connecting your power supply to an outlet. The non circled wires are what will be connecting to your Duet Maestro board {% hint style="info" %} We recommend having an on/off switch between the power supply and Duet Maestro board, this makes it easier to turn your printer on and off. {% endhint %} ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJG7YLd_8XkGxTtVd0j%2F-LJG8eQm5abRuNcnzQes%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=2ac8d509-8dda-4ea9-a7a0-a63a3ad9dc2f) The red and black wires will be connecting to ports 3 and 4, respectively, as shown in the image above. **Attaching the LCD Screen** To attach the LCD screen to your Duet Maestro you will need to use these ribbon cables provided in the upgrade kit given to you. You will plug the cables into the Duet Maestro in ports labeled "Future Expandability" ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw2magjFcFqKhbZF5Z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465487126\&alt=media) Finally, attach the cables to your LCD screen. **Heating the Bed** The bed was wired separately from the main collection of wires because of the power supply. The QuadFusion requires a 24V power supply in order to properly power the motors, heater, and thermistor. However, the bed could only be safely powered by 12V, so it was decided to have the bed remain wired to Prusa's original power source, but also be connected to the Duest Maestro. {% hint style="warning" %} Make sure you make the same connections, in the same location, that are described and pictured below. {% endhint %} To begin, the bed's heater wire will be attaching to the Duet Maestro here: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUHlMGfJ3OCJfQV3ad%2F-LJUIdnl0bTduQFC-oYT%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=1b6bdffe-a366-4bad-9dee-d00bbdbbb892) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIvDpGYCqwnPZOytHpc%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830480178715\&alt=media) Once you have done this you will want to use a terminal board to make further connections. Take the two wires coming from the back of your Prusa i3 MK2S and connect them on the same side, like so: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPw7a6Cv1kx7-UIh6%2Fimage%20\(26\).png?generation=1533830485640806\&alt=media) Color coordination:\ The yellow circled wire is the plain black wire.\ The green circled wire is the black wire with a red stripe. Next, you will want to create you own wire, preferably with a loop connector, that connects from the terminal board to the Duet Maestro's positive Port 1. As shown below: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUHlMGfJ3OCJfQV3ad%2F-LJUKSkI823OpESbr3y6%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=e52abb76-0228-4726-a7a6-fcc52bb33fb7) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUHlMGfJ3OCJfQV3ad%2F-LJUKWE3etnf_o79ZUlu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=8fa49d8c-5c89-4e7e-8737-cbe12c97c48c) The following step is to make a another wire connecting a 24V power supply's negative port to the terminal board: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIpsCQS49lgRJ_ej199%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830496017314\&alt=media) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUM-sj2Nod-9qOCldk%2F-LJUMCAETdfy0s6zMubs%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=4aa47c3d-0718-44a4-b58d-8d937ea2218f) The last connections to make are those from the 12V power supply, that Prusa has with the i3 MK2S, to the terminal board: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgroqS76FlqbDrsMFv%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830499276229\&alt=media) Color coordination:\ The blue circled wire will be black and have a red stripe on it.\ The yellow circled wire will be plain black. Don't have something that is listed here? Check out these links if you need something for the QuadFusion! 24V power supply: \ Duet Maestro Board: \ Extruder Expansion Board: \ Toggle Switch: Thank you for supporting the QuadFusion, and Happy Printing! # Duet Maestro Wiring This guide covers the wiring of the Crane along with possible wiring solutions to problems. Properly understanding the wiring of the Crane is extremely important. Shorting the Duet Maestro board can be done easily. Follow and acknowledge the warnings listed in [Critical Warnings](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/critical-warnings-and-information). The Duet Maestro board can be easily damaged or broken by: 1. Wiring the board incorrectly and causing a short 2. Electro-static Discharge 3. Generating too much voltage by manually moving motors 4. Plugging in and unplugging components while the system is powered 5. Touching electrical components while the system is powered ## Wiring Guide ### Duet Maestro Ports ![Duet Maestro Component Diagram](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGta6i7Cvu7HIlTQU%2F7hdul5ufumywk6z6-duetcomponents.jfif?generation=1532553048463388\&alt=media) The image above displays the ports found on the Duet Maestro and their functions. Before you can begin to wire your QuadFusion to the Duet Maestro board you must attach an extension to the board. With this extension you will be able to connect the the extra motor wires to the board. The following pictures show where the extension goes, and how it looks once it has been plugged in: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgvGJ_tRbD1ulR_77M%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830491221856\&alt=media) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtHQynqc5UQJLyMNo%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=44e18104-a95e-4aa5-a706-31092fecafae) ### Base Connections ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgtVL_9Ws6sIslJOyu%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a711d3e7-e6c6-4177-9b2a-f6d928b572a0) Without the fans, the QuadFusion has six main wires coming from it. The four wires with yellow dots at the ends are the motor wires. The wire with a green dot is the heater wire, and lastly the wire with the red dot is the PT1000 (or thermistor). The wires plug in to their corresponding color that is boxed in the following picture: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJG3WHI0GG4Zg8lnso7%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830464537430\&alt=media) Notes: * Keep in mind when you're wiring your QuadFusion's motors to the Duet Maestro board which motor is connected to which port. The first picture in this guide labels each port as E0 Stepper, E1 Stepper, E2 External Driver, and E3 External Driver. When facing the front of your QuadFusion, the front left motor is 0, the front right motor is 2, the back left motor is 1, and the back right motor is 3. * If you decide to extend the wires given to you, make sure that you are maintaining the original positive and negative wires. **Connecting the fans** {% hint style="info" %} Make sure to have your hotend fans connected to the 5V port. Look at the Jumpers section to see how to do so. {% endhint %} There are three fans connected to the QuadFusion, two small fans on the left and right and one large fan on the front. The large fan on the front is Fan 0, or "Always On", the two side fans are connected to one another and make up Fan 1 (whose speed can be controlled in the Duet Web Control). In the picture below, the red box indicates where Fan 0 should be plugged in, and the blue box is where Fan 1 is to be plugged in. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIkkAEbPFujgcKGX2VC%2F-LIkpyf18o9wnw5TXQI3%2FIMG_1358_.jpg?alt=media\&token=1e300d04-127a-4978-af93-f7421dda4fa3) ### Crane Resistance Table The Crane electrical components have specific resistances attributed to them. This can make troubleshooting components much easier. With a multi-meter set to measure resistance, you can measure the resistance of a thermistor or heater and compare the reading with the values in the table below. Whenever you are working with electrical components we recommend you switch off the power to the Duet board! **Resistance Table** | Component | Expected Value (Ω) | | ---------------------- | ------------------ | | Extruder PT1000 | 1090\* Ω | | Extruder Heater | 13.1 Ω | | Bed | 2.2 Ω | | Bed Thermistor | 106800\* Ω | | Extruder Stepper Motor | 19.3 Ω | | Axis Stepper Motor | 9.0 Ω | \*Remember that the resistance of a thermistor is dependent on temperature and will vary from this reading! Thermistor resistance values listed above were taken at room temperature (\~24 C) ### Jumpers You might notice that your Duet Maestro board for the Crane came with several jumpers on the board. In case you are not familiar with what a jumper is, it represents a connector bridging two electrical components or signals. Read this for more about jumpers: \[Wikipedia: Jumpers]\()). Your Duet should have 5 different jumpers, located as seen in the image below. ![Duet Maestro Jumper Placement](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtaGRyJNF_k1QsBv%2Fw1auipj2zhq0fiku-duetmaestrojumpers.jpg?generation=1532553045153216\&alt=media) Jumpers: 1. Allows for internal 5V power when Vin (24V) is connected 2. Fan voltage jumper, B FAN2, set to 5V for nozzle fan 3. Fan voltage jumper, A Always-on-fan set to Vin for cold-section fan 4. and 5. Only one Z-motor on the Crane, so jumpers are required to properly connect Z-motor to the stepper motor driver. {% hint style="info" %} You will need Jumper #1 in order to connect the third and fourth motor from the QuadFusion to the Duet Maestro {% endhint %} The pictures below depict where the jumper needs to go, and how it looks once it is there: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgsk1ioWjjSo67Fjwp%2F-LIgu7W0gDfXaTIhf8vz%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=9a4d451c-30ba-4c63-b547-74c62197a091) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPt1bkzlbuqLDijQ4%2Fimage%20\(70\).png?generation=1533830492017335\&alt=media) ### Before you continue If you change the wiring of your printer it is best to proceed with the following steps before continuing to prevent damage. 1. Double check the wiring of every single wire you changed. 2. Plug in the power supply while the printer is switched **off**. 3. Turn the printer on 4. Connect to the Duet Web Console 5. Verify the temperature readouts of all heating components. 6. Test each component individually 1. Move each motor independently and confirm that it is travelling in the correct direction. 2. Heat up your nozzle(s) 3. Heat up your bed 4. Press each limit switch 7. You should be ready to go! ### Extra Resources: There is way more to the electronics of the Duet Maestro board. Follow the links below for more help and information regarding the Duet Maestro. 1. [Duet Maestro Pinout](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_2_Maestro_Wiring_Diagram) 2. [Duet Maestro Hardware Overview](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_2_Maestro_Hardware_Overview#Section_Wiring_and_pinout) 3. [M3D Support](https://printm3d.com/support) 4. [Duet3D forum](https://forum.duet3d.com/): A great place for very specific Duet Maestro and RepRap firmware questions # Beginner Guides This chapter serves as an introduction to 3D printers for Quad Fusion 3D Print Head users who are not familiar with 3D printing. You will find numerous guides that explain fundamental 3D printing concepts from the start. Experienced 3D printer users are welcome too! You never know what information you might find in this chapter. If you are a more experienced 3D printer user, please follow the [Getting Started](/getting-started) chapter. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0CvDOAgLhhK8PJ" %} [Beginner: Preparation](/beginner-guides/beginner-preparation) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0DR9c3HSrkT\_Hy" %} [Broken mention](broken://pages/-LII7Z0DR9c3HSrkT_Hy) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0Fz\_rQuXV10F5K" %} [Beginner: Moving the Motors](/beginner-guides/beginner-moving-the-motors) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0G4xoTdlFzNwrx" %} [Beginner: Introduction to G-Code Commands](/beginner-guides/beginner-introduction-to-g-code-commands) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0HPbT3jo54JlYy" %} [Beginner: Software Layers](/beginner-guides/beginner-software-layers) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0IF8-yLO\_U5V3\_" %} [Beginner: What is Slicing?](/beginner-guides/beginner-what-is-slicing) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0JivqcJ37hrQjW" %} [Beginner: Printing the Print](/beginner-guides/beginner-printing-the-print) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0KVKsuy4jOjyzP" %} [Beginner: Where to Go From Here](/beginner-guides/beginner-where-to-go-from-here) {% endcontent-ref %} # Beginner: Preparation Before starting the Beginner Guides guides, please complete the following steps to ensure your printer is working properly and is connected to your local network. 1. Read the [Critical Warnings](/getting-started/critical-warnings-and-information) in the Getting Started chapter of the QuadFusion. This contains useful and important information about what to do and (more importantly) what not to do with your QuadFusion. 2. Follow the [Unboxing & Assembly](https://quadfusion.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LIRqdq5PX_HDBbChvND/getting-started/accessing-your-sd-card) and [Getting Started ](https://quadfusion.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LIRqdq5PX_HDBbChvND/getting-started)guides. This will make sure your QuadFusion 3D Print Head is ready to undergo the rigorous Beginners Guide. 3. Continue on to the next guide! # Beginner: QuadFusion Assembly # Beginner: Moving the Motors Before you power on your motors you can manually move the extruder head around the printer. Follow the steps below in order to start moving the printer. 1. Move the extruder head to the center of the printer by hand. This should not take a lot of effort to do as long as the motors are not powered. Once you move the motors, the motors will be powered and resist any force acted on them. 2. Go to the *Machine Control* tab of the Duet Web Console. ![Machine Control Tab in Duet Web Console](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGz7kfE2MkwC5eapB%2Fz81qrjdadnqori0d-machinecontrol-1.PNG?generation=1532553066557260\&alt=media) 1. Press *Home All*, this will home all the axes of the printer and ensure that the origin of the printer is located at the front-left corner of the 3D printer. After the homing process is complete, you can see that the position of the 3D printer is updated in the *Machine Status* tab on the Duet Web Console. 2. Press the X-10 button in the *Head Movement* window. This will move the extruder carriage of the printer 10mm in the negative X direction, this should be towards the left if you are facing the front of the printer. Now press the Y-10 button, this will move the printer -10 mm in the Y-direction. If you are facing the front of the printer, this should send the bed carriage away you. Press the Z-10 button in order to move the extruder down 10 mm. 3. You can keep pressing the buttons to move the extruder carriage to become more familiar with the directions and coordinate system of the Crane. **Absolute vs. Relative** A 3D printer movement allows for two different modes, absolute and relative. These two terms are also used frequently in machining and other engineering processes. Absolute describes a position or command with respect to the origin or zero position. Remember that for the Crane the origin is located in the top-left-front corner. Relative describes the position of a 3D printer relative to the previous point the printer was located at. For example, if you tell the printer to move (20,20,20). Absolute mode will send the printer to the point where X = 20mm, Y = 20mm and Z = 20mm, relative to the origin. While relative will send the printer 20 mm in the X-direction, Y-direction and Z-direction relative to its previous position. This means your printer will go to two completely different places depending on if you are in relative or absolute mode. If you were to tell the printer to go to (20,20,20) while the printer was in absolute mode, it would result in the printer first moving to (20,20,20). If you told it again to go to (20,20,20) it would just stay there. The Duet would say: I am already there! If you told the printer to move (20,20,20) twice while the printer was in relative mode. The printer would move 20mm in the X, Y and Z directions the first time. And then move 20mm in the X, Y and Z directions for the second time as well. This is the difference between absolute and relative. # Beginner: Introduction to G-Code Commands Now that you are familiar with the coordinate system of the Crane, its orientation and direction, we can get started with learning and sending G-code commands. G-code commands are sent one line at a time, with one command per line. When you send a print file to your printer in order to print something, you are sending the printer a long list of G-code commands. It will look something like this (but way longer!): ``` G1 X173.448 Y182.05 E0.03872 G1 X173.922 Y181.843 E0.03871 G1 X174.422 Y181.712 E0.03868 G1 X174.883 Y181.662 E0.0347 G1 X178.301 Y181.524 E0.256 G1 X183.787 Y181.051 E0.41207 G1 X189.186 Y180.278 E0.40816 G1 X194.553 Y179.196 E0.40972 G1 X197.18 Y178.55 E0.20245 G1 X202.457 Y177.012 E0.41134 G1 X208.239 Y174.993 E0.45832 G1 X208.864 Y174.84 E0.04815 G1 X209.841 Y174.699 E0.07387 G1 X210.32 Y174.665 E0.03594 G1 X240.74 Y174.665 E2.27649 G1 X241.414 Y174.733 E0.0507 G1 X242.865 Y175.031 E0.11085 G1 X243.362 Y175.174 E0.0387 G1 X243.641 Y175.293 E0.0227 G1 X244.676 Y175.79 E0.08592 G1 X245.287 Y176.169 E0.05381 G1 X245.992 Y176.719 E0.06691 G1 X246.435 Y177.134 E0.04543 G1 X247.028 Y177.801 E0.06679 G1 X247.379 Y178.274 E0.04408 G1 X247.842 Y179.028 E0.06621 G1 X248.113 Y179.576 E0.04575 G1 X248.46 Y180.476 E0.07218 G1 X248.633 Y181.098 E0.04831 G1 X248.792 Y181.998 E0.06839 G1 X248.843 Y182.581 E0.0438 ``` **Basic Commands** The command, `G1`, you are see above is called the move command. This is arguably the most important G-code as it allows you to move the printer. Each G-code command consists of a letter followed by a number. `G31`, `M564` and `T0` are all valid G-code commands as well. The Duet Maestro control board runs [RepRap Firmware](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware). This firmware determines what commands are valid, and which commands are not. You can find all the valid commands that you can send in a long list on the [RepRap Wiki G-codes Page](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code). After the initial letter-number combination of the G-code command a parameter can follow. This is also visible with the G-code commands listed above, the command `G1 X248.843 Y182.581 E0.0438` has `X248.843 Y182.581 E0.0438` as parameters. Many different G-code commands have optional parameters that can be entered after the initial command. **Absolute vs. Relative in Commands** With the `G1` command you can move the printer. However, where the `G1` command moves your printer depends on whether you are in absolute or relative mode. Absolute mode is enabled whenever you send the command `G90`, relative mode is enabled when you send the command `G91`. Whenever you are printing absolute mode is typically enabled. If you restart your printer, absolute mode will also be enabled. If you send the command `G1 X150 Y120 Z100` in absolute mode (`G90`), the printer will move to the position X = 150mm, Y = 120mm and Z = 100mm, **relative to the origin**. If you send the same command in relative mode (`G91`), it will send the printer 150 mm in the positive X-direction, 120 mm in the positive Y-direction and 100 mm in the Z-direction relative to where the printer currently is positioned. The same command can send the printer to two completely different places depending on what mode you are in. As you saw in one of the commands above, the move command, `G1`, can also have an `E` parameter, this allows for a movement of the extruder motor. **Feedrate** Aside from the `X`, `Y`, `Z` and `E` parameters which allow the printer to move each of the motors, there is one other important parameter `F`. `F` is the feedrate of the motor, or is simple terms, the speed that the motor will travel at. The units of the `X`, `Y`, `Z` and `E` parameters is mm. However for `F` or feedrate the units are `mm/min`. A normal travel feedrate (speed) would be 3000mm/min, but for printing the feedrates are typically much lower. **The Movement Buttons** In one of the steps above you used the buttons in *Machine Control* to move the printer. What is really happening here is that when you press a button a list of G-code commands are sent to the printer. For example, if you press the X+10 button to move the printer 10mm in the positive X-direction this is what is actually sent: ``` M120 G91 G1 X10 F6000 M121 ``` You might be familiar with two of the G-code commands here `G91` and `G1`. `G91` enables relative mode, so the next move command that is sent will be with respect to the printers current position and not the origin. After the `G91` command, the move command `G1` is sent. This sends the printer 10mm in the positive X-direction at a feedrate of 6000mm/min. The `M120` and `M121` commands are stack push and pop. If you are not familiar with these two programming terms, then don't worry, they are not important to know for a beginning user. All you have to know is that it will disable relative mode `G91` and return to absolute mode `G90`. This is because you want the printer to be back in absolute mode after pressing the move buttons. **Sending G-code Commands** Now that you are more familiar with G-code commands you can try to complete the steps below in order to see how the printer responds to you sending G-code commands directly to the printer itself. Find the *G-code Console* tab in the Duet Web Console. ![G-Code Console in the Duet Web Console](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGyuAwnmdjlOlr9YR%2Fztlrwbqq28r8id6g-howtogcode.png?generation=1532553066456900\&alt=media) This tab allows you to send commands to the printer using the textfield as seen above. Once you enter a command in the text field you can press *Enter* or press the dark-blue send button. The printer will then process the command and execute it. If the command executed successfully you will see a print out of the command you send in the *Printer Printout* terminal with a green background. If the firmware encountered an error while trying to process the command, it will printout the command with a red background and more information about the error. If you have not yet homed your printer, click the *Home All* button in the *Machine Control* tab. Try sending the command `G1 X100 Y100`. This will move the printer to 100 mm X and 100 mm Y. Send the command `G1 Z50`. This will move the bed to about 50 mm from the nozzle. You can keep sending commands to move the printer around the build space. The table below represents the limits of the printer, the firmware should prevent you from going past these limits. Still, try to keep your move commands within the build space of the printer. You can also try to change the feedrate of the printer to see how the speed of the printer changes as the printer moves around. | | Axes Limits | | | -------- | ----------- | -------- | | | Max (mm) | Min (mm) | | X - Axis | 214 | 0 | | Y - Axis | 214 | 0 | | Z - Axis | 230 | 0 | **Other G-code Commands** Of course there are many more RepRap supported G-code commands (as you might have seen on the [RepRap Wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code)). You will come across some of them as you follow this guide. Whenever you have questions about what a command does, you can look up the command in the wiki. Throughout the different guides you will find G-code in `this format`. That typically means you can execute the G-code command. Comments are denoted by any text following a semi-colon ";". A new line will end the comment. `G1 X100 ; This is a comment!` # Beginner: Software Layers This guide is intended to explain all the different software levels that takes a model to a final printed form on the Crane. We will start at a model on a modelling software on a computer and go all the way down to the RepRap firmware that runs on the Duet Maestro. ## Software Layers | Layer | Purpose | | ---------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Model Software | Create *.STL* models of prints | | Slicing Software | Convert *.STL* files to .*gcode* files while incorporating printer and print settings | | Duet Web Interface | A web server running on the Duet Maestro that connects to your local network in order to allow for control and monitor of a 3D printer | | Configuration Settings | G-code files on the microSD card which are loaded upon the boot-up of the Duet board in order to properly configure the board for the printer | | Firmware | Software running on the Duet Maestro that handles G-code and other operations. Can not be configured. | ## Model Software If you want to print something on a Crane you will first have to create or find a model of what you plan to print. Creating and designing a model is currently done with CAD (Computer Aided Design) software such as SolidWorks or TinkerCAD. SolidWorks offers a more technical and precise solution to designing models, while TinkerCAD represents an easier and faster solution. Aside from creating your own models you can find many models online. These models exist on websites such as [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), [Pinshape,](https://pinshape.com/) [MyMiniFactory](https://www.myminifactory.com/) and many others! In the next step you will see that you need slicing software and slicing software will require a specific file type. That file type is called a .*STL* file or [stereolithography](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_\(file_format\)) file. This file type stores the outside shell of a model, which is typically all the slicer needs. Whenever you design or find a model to print it you will have to convert it to a .*STL* file in order to slice it. ## Slicing Software Slicer software fills the void between the model and the 3D printer. The 3D printer can only understand G-code commands and the modeling software can only generate models. Slicer software allows you to convert a model to G-code that will allow a 3D printer to create a print. Incorporated into the slicer software are many different print and printer settings. Print settings refer to the things such as extrusion, cooling and print temperature. Printer settings configure things such as the build volume of the printer or the starting and ending G-code for a print. This software is called a slicer as it typically converts a model into many different layers to print one at a time. The slicing software creates a file type called a *.gcode* file. This is a long list of commands that can be interpreted by the Duet Board. The G-code commands in this file are exactly the same as the ones you would enter in manually, such as `G1` , but just in a long list. ## Duet Web Interface To allow control of the Crane you have the Duet Web Console. This is a simple web server that runs on the Duet Maestro and connects to your local network. Aside from control the Duet Web Console allow you to observe various different statistics, status tables and values of the Crane. This allows you to troubleshoot problems much easier with more feedback. You can start and end prints from here. The Duet Web Console also allows you to configure certain settings on the Crane. ## Configuration Settings The SD card stores files that allow for the operation of the Duet Web Server as well as configure the board, the settings that configure the board can be referred to as the configuration settings. The microSD card has four different folders that each handle a certain part of the Duet board operation (look in [SD Card Structure](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/sd-card-structure)). The SD card files operate on a higher level. The files located in the *sys/* folder, configure the board. They can be changed by the user at any time, either through the Duet Web Console or by changing the files from your computer. The configuration files often simply represent a grouping of G-code commands that are run upon the boot of the Duet board. Whenever the Duet Board is booted up, it will have no settings loaded. So whenever *config.g* is run on the start, it gets configured with the settings inside. These configuration files are in the form of G-code files. When you download the SD card file from the M3D Github Repository, you are just taking the M3D preferred settings for the Crane. ## Firmware The firmware on the board is a version of RepRap released by DC42. The firmware is released on his [GitHub Releases](https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases). If you want to update your firmware, you can follow the [Updating Firmware](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/firmware-guides/updating-firmware) guide. The RepRap firmware on the board interprets all the G-code commands sent to the board. It is stored on the micro-processor on the Duet Maestro and required for the board to operate. The firmware handles low-level operation such as controlling the stepper motor drivers or processing G-code commands. Changing the firmware directly is not possible, you will have to update the firmware using the guide above. The next guide: [What is Slicing?](/beginner-guides/beginner-what-is-slicing) will cover how slicing works and helps you configure your slicer. # Beginner: What is Slicing? Whenever you want to print a model you will have to convert the model to a *.gcode* file type. This file type is a huge list of G-code commands that the Duet Board will process one by one in order to achieve a complete print. The G-code file is generated by software called a slicer. A slicer takes a model applies certain print and printer settings and generates the *.gcode* file. The model also has to be of a specific file type called a *.STL.* This file type can be generated from a CAD model that you designed or downloaded from the internet from websites such as [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), [Pinshape,](https://pinshape.com/) [MyMiniFactory ](https://www.myminifactory.com/)and many others! ## Finding an *.STL* File It is possible to create your own *.STL* file by downloading a CAD (Computer Assisted Design) software such as SolidWorks or [TinkerCAD](https://www.tinkercad.com/). However, in order to take things one step at a time, we will go online and download a working model from the internet. This is because multiple constraints of the 3D printer have to be taken into account when designing a model for printing with a 3D printer. Go to one of the websites listed above and download a *.STL* model of something you would want to print. For this guide I am going to use this model: [Customizable Yin-Yang Planter / Container](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2531208) by [Lucina M](https://www.thingiverse.com/Lucina/about). Follow the red markings below. Click Thing Files and then click the models you want to download the .*STL* files of. These files will then end up in your downloads folder. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrQUJG5dN-pj8xm%2Fhowtothingiverse.png?generation=1532553059658636\&alt=media) Next, we will move on to installing a slicer to slice the models we just downloaded. ## Installing Cura For this guide we will use Cura to slice our model. [Download it here!](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) Continue with the installation process until you are able to launch Cura. ### Configuring Cura Open Cura's Setting by pressing *Preferences > Configure Cura.* ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrVnNwgrgdm1m7b%2Fconfiguringcura.jpg?generation=1532553047942928\&alt=media) Once you have opened Cura's settings we will go to add a printer. This is because we need to tell Cura the specifics of our printer, such as the maximum build volume of the printer. Press *Printers* and then *Add* in order to add a new printer. This will open a new window. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrXmEmGKdWnfADj%2Fconfiguringcura2.jpg?generation=1532553048038289\&alt=media) Next, press *Custom.* This indicates we are adding a custom printer to Cura's loadout. You can define the *Printer Name* however you want. Then press *Add Printer,* this should open another setting window*.* ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrZWeUQIAmxuTfv%2Fconfiguringcura3.jpg?generation=1532553058190694\&alt=media) This window allows you to configure the printer settings of the Crane. This informs Cura of the Crane's build space, the firmware flavor and specifies starting and ending G-code. The build volume of the printer represents the maximum value that the printer can travel in each direction. The firmware flavor is the type of firmware that the board is running. The Duet Maestro board runs on RepRap firmware. Your firmware flavor indicates what type of commands the board can understand. The starting and ending G-code is a series of commands that are run at the start and at the end of every print. This is important as it allows you to retract your filament after the print and turn all the heaters off. Configure the settings in this window exactly as shown in the image below. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIw79xKGR5MQuHo9tIO%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830465566902\&alt=media) `; Starting G-code:` \ `G28 ;Home` \ `;Prime the extruder` \ `G92 E0` \ `G1 F200 E3` \ `G92 E0` `; Ending G-code` \ `M104 S0` \ `M140 S0` \ `;Retract the filament` \ `G92 E1` \ `G1 E-1 F300` \ `G28 X0 Y0` \ `M84` **Don't click** ***Close*** **just yet!** Move on to the *Extruder 1* tab and fill in the following information. Fill in the nozzle diameter and the material diameter. Your nozzle diameter may vary in the future as you mount different types of nozzles on the Crane. Then you can click *Close.* ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJK7tYI77Lb4E3ATxLq%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830489180535\&alt=media) Once you have added the printer make sure to activate it by selecting the name and then clicking the button *Activate.* ### Importing the Printer Profile The next step is to go to the M3D GitHub Crane repository, in the [Cura Profiles folder](https://github.com/PrintM3D/Crane/tree/devel/Cura%20Profiles) and download the Cura profile for your extruder setup. In order to download the Cura Profile, click on the file in GitHub and then press the Download button as seen in the image below, outline in red. This profile contains all kinds of print settings that help the Crane print well. You can find and tune these settings through experimentation at a later time. For now, this default profile will work well. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtreWWOtkl8KtHgj%2Fdownloadingcuraprofile.png?generation=1532553045568860\&alt=media) In Cura, open the Preferences again by clicking *Preferences > Configure Cura.* Click *Profiles > Import*. Then a window will pop up that will allow you to navigate to the profile you just downloaded. It will most likely be in the *Downloads* folder. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrgjn40g5_qveRY%2Fimportingcuraprofile.png?generation=1532553062434219\&alt=media) Once you have properly imported the file you will have to *Activate* it. Select the profile and click the button *Activate.* The print settings you just downloaded have now been applied to Cura. Whenever you slice a model, it will now incorporate these settings. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtriEqpa-nRX--NS%2Factivatingcuraprofile.png?generation=1532553060263542\&alt=media) ## How Cura Works Now that you have properly configured Cura, we can go over how it operates, and how you can configure it. Look at the diagram below for a simple drawing of the most important functions of Cura. The buttons on the left side allow you to load a model into Cura. This is very important as loading a model into Cura begins the slicing process. The buttons below the *Open File* button allow you to manipulate the position, orientation and scale of the model. This is very important. On the right of the window you have buttons to select your material, and *Advanced Settings.* This tab allows you to configure the finer details of the print as you print with your Crane. Mastering the settings of this tab is extremely useful in order to produce fine and high detail prints. Before you print you should always review the settings in this tab in order to ensure that the printing temperature and other settings is correct for your print and material. Whenever you configure your settings and have your print in the correct position and orientation, you can click Prepare in the bottom right corner. Cura will then take a few seconds to slice the file and create a *.gcode* file. You will then be able to click the button *Save File* and then save the G-code file to a location file of your choice. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrk7n16GHfQMIaW%2Fcuraguide.png?generation=1532553048692384\&alt=media) ## Slicing in Cura ### Opening a Model Now we will actually slice the model we downloaded earlier. First, click the folder icon *Open File* in the top left of the window. Then navigate to the *.STL* file you downloaded earlier and press *Open.* You should then see the model appear on your build plate. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrm1wD0fjUcZadS%2Fcurahasamodel.png?generation=1532553056416628\&alt=media) In order to better view your model you can right click and drag in order to change the orientation of your model. Shift + Left Click and dragging will allow you to move the position of the camera. You can always home your view with the buttons in the top-left corner. In the image above I imported three different models. ### Positioning the Model Use the b~~u~~ttons on the left of the window in order to orient and position the parts as you want. Make sure to keep appropriate distance between parts. Make sure that the parts also have a sufficient flat surface of their model to adhere to the print bed. Check out the images below for more guidance on part orientation. ![This is a good print layout](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtro5nhsubp_PuUE%2Fmovingmodelsaround.png?generation=1532553057634602\&alt=media) ![Make sure the models are kept apart](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrqD0SPuG0wqRpk%2Fdontcurathisway1.png?generation=1532553048632052\&alt=media) ![Make sure the model is correctly oriented on the print bed](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrsI8QMtrphuoT9%2Fdontcurathisway2.png?generation=1532553066722977\&alt=media) ### Configuring Print Settings Next, we will configure the print settings in Cura. This will all take place on the right side of the Cura window. In a tab called *Custom.* {% hint style="info" %} If you can't see any of the option in the steps below. Go to *Preferences > Configure Cura > Settings* and change the *Setting Visibility* to *Basic.* This will allow you to see more settings. Eventually, you can change this to *Advanced* or *Expert* in order to allow for more print setting options. \_\_![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtruliDX11Hz9qSq%2Fsettingvisibility.png?generation=1532553066573471\&alt=media) \_\_ {% endhint %} The only thing you should have to configure for your first print is the *Material: Temperature Setting.* Configure this based on the material you are printing with. If you are printing with ABS-R, I recommend a temperature of 235°C and if you are printing with PLA a temperature of 205°C is fit. Fill this into the box as shown below. For my print, I am printing with ABS-R, so I filled in 235°C. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtrw43OpqpqANWk0%2Fsettingcuratemperature.png?generation=1532553067485803\&alt=media) Now we are ready to slice the model. Just click Prepare in the bottom right corner. It might take a few seconds for Cura to slice the model. Click once and wait for a few seconds. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtryJgHnkxrl3lW9%2Fslicingincura.png?generation=1532553049293629\&alt=media) Once you have sliced the model press the *Save to File* button. Then save the file to a location that you will remember. You will notice that the file you are saving is a *.gcode* file which is ready to print. You are now ready to continue on to the next guide. # Beginner: Printing the Print This is the final guide in the Beginner Guides chapter. It will cover how to upload and monitor a print on the Duet Web Console. This guide assumes you have properly configured your printer with all the previous beginner guides. That means: * You have homed your printer * You have run and enabled mesh bed leveling * You have loaded filament into the extruder ## Heating your QuadFusion print head for the first time: It's important to heat your QuadFusion print head to 235C and allow it to sit for several minuets BEFORE your first print. This will allow you to not only determine if the print head has been connected properly, but it will also allow it to prime for it's first use. To do this simply set the temperature to 235C for Tool 0 in the upper left area of your Duet Web Control console. Since this is the VERY first time the QuadFusion head has been heated, it may emit an odor. This odor should be slight and it should dissipate within a few minutes. Please make sure your work area is well ventilated during the first heating of your QuadFusion print head. ## Uploading the G-code File ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGug4mAaxic4UWn0R%2Fuploadinggcodefiles.png?generation=1532553064757310\&alt=media) First, we will have to upload the G-code file we produced in the previous guide. Connect to the Duet Web Console on the printer. Then, press the *G-code Files* button and then press the *Upload G-code File(s)* button as shown in the image above. This will open a window which will allow you to select the G-code file you sliced. *Open* the file and wait for it to upload. ## Printing the File Once the file is uploaded, you can click the file in order to print it. A window will pop-up confirming that you are about to print something. Click *Yes.* ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGug6yNmwbz5qgbRK%2Fprintingthegcodefile.png?generation=1532553049582213\&alt=media) ## Monitoring the Print Now, the print has started. First, the printer will reach it's designated printing temperature that you set in Cura. This might take a while and the printer will not start printing until all components have reached temperature. When the print starts the Duet Web Console will shift over to the *Print Status* tab on the Duet Web Console. This tab allows you to monitor certain settings of the print. Two of the functions on this tab are very useful: *Z Baby Stepping* and *Speed Factor* , these allow you to change the height of the Z and speed while printing. If you notice that a layer is not sticking, try to reduce the speed. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGug8YmZKTbEuv6Oo%2Fprintstatussettings.png?generation=1532553049678166\&alt=media) Your print should now be able to run to completion. # Beginner: Where to Go From Here Now that you have completed the beginner guides you can continue to the following guides: * Browse the [Getting Started](/getting-started) chapter to ensure you know everything # Electrical Guides This chapter contains guides that explain the wiring of components of the QuadFusion. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0Mt\_p66b\_skWZk" %} [Duet Maestro Wiring](/supported-printers/duet-maestro-wiring) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0Opg4ZwCHQup3V" %} [The Electrical Standard](/electrical-guides/the-electrical-standard) {% endcontent-ref %} # The Electrical Standard This guide serves to describe the standard for the electrical system of the QuadFusion and the reasoning behind it. ## The Standard For all the electrical components of the QuadFusion, when facing the front (from left to right) the motors (or filament entry points) are Drive 1, Drive 0, Drive 3, and Drive 2. ## Reasoning The Duet board features two different ports for the extruders, thermistors and heaters. Additionally, the extruder assembly wiring features different connectors for all of these components. On top of that, you can configure the software settings of each of the tools in order to use particular heaters or extruders. This all combined allows you to create a large number of configurations for the extruder wiring. This standard is meant to explain and standardize that wiring. ## Explanation ### Extruder Drives The Duet Maestro board has two different ports for the extruder, often referred to as E0 and E1. With this standard, the E0 port will power Drive 0 and E1 will power Drive 1, always. Additionally, with the extension board added, External Driver 2 will power Drive 2 and External Driver 3 will power Drive 3, always. ### Heaters The Duet Maestro has two different heater ports labeled E0 HEAT and E1 HEAT. These are also noted as H1 and H2, because the heated bed is H0. With the standard, H1 will correspond to the extruder's heater and H2 will not be bothered. ## Thermistor The thermistor's ports on the Duet Maestro are referred to as E0 TEMP and E1 TEMP. In the firmware of the Duet, E0 TEMP is always bound to E0 HEAT and E1 TEMP is bound to E1 HEAT. Therefore, E0 TEMP corresponds to the bed heater and E1 TEMP corresponds to the extruder heater. ## Tools The QuadFusion has a minimum of four tools, thus the drives previously mentioned will correspond to the tools. Such as, Drive 0 will be Tool 0, Drive 1 will be Tool 1, and so on. ## Deviating from the Standard In the configuration files and the wiring of the QuadFusion you can deviate from this standard. To change the tool definition in the configuration files, read the [Help! My Extruders are Backwards](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHcd83qhBiRw2GAgwN_/firmware-guides/help-my-extruders-are-backwards) guide. For wiring read [Duet Maestro Wiring](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHcd83qhBiRw2GAgwN_/electrical-guides/duet-maestro-wiring) and [Extruder Assembly Wiring](https://promega.printm3d.com/~/edit/drafts/-LHcd83qhBiRw2GAgwN_/electrical-guides/extruder-assembly-wiring). # Firmware Guides # Adjusting Homing Macros Whenever you press the homing buttons located on the *Machine Control* tab of the Duet Web Interface macros are called. This guide will cover the possible changes you can make to your homing G-code files. For assistance in homing your printer checkout the [Homing the Printer](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/homing-the-printer) guide. ## Homing Macros If you looked inside the *sys/* directory of the microSD card you will have noticed five homing files. These homing files control the homing of different components of the printer. * **homeall.g**: This file contains G-code to home all three axes of the printer. This file is executed whenever the command `G28` is entered or whenever the *Home All* button on the Duet Web Interface is pressed. * **homex.g & homey.g**: This file contains G-code to home the coreXY system of this printer. Because this printer is a coreXY system, the X and Y axes are linked. We recommend that whenever you home your X axis, you also home your Y axis. This is visible in these G-code files as they are both the same. Each g-code file homes both the X and Y axes. If you prefer, it is possible to separate the homing of the two axes. These files are executed whenever the *Home X* or *Home Y* buttons are pressed or when `G28 X` or `G28 Y` is sent. * **homez.g**: This file contains G-code to home the Z-axis of this printer. It is called whenever you press the *Home Z* button on the Duet Web Interface or `G28 Z` is sent. * **homedelta.g**: This file is for homing a delta printer, so obviously not very necessary. **Changing the Macros** You are free to change the G-code in the homing macros. But be careful as you could easily crash your printer. When your printer is not homed but moves to a physical limit it will skip motors or belts. Please be sure of the direction you are sending your assemblies and ensure that they will hit the limit switch. Each homing macro contains a few critical commands, in the section below we will go over those commands. * `M564 H0 S0`: Ignore Machine Boundaries, when you home the printer it is likely because you want to define the printers location and limits. To do this the printer might have to pass through boundaries set in the config.g file. The printer also has to be allowed to move while the axes are not homed. This exception to allow movement while not homed and through axes limits is performed with this command. Put this command at the start of every homing macro. At the end of the homing macro you can engage the axes limitation and homing requirement again with the command `M564 H1 S1`. * `M561` & `G29 S2`: These two command disable bed leveling compenation during this process. It is best not to compensate for bed leveling while homing. Therefore you can disable bed leveling compensation at the beginning of the macro and enable it with the command `G29 S1` at the end of the macro. * `G91`: Change to relative positioning. Because the printer does not know where it is, this command will base its movement based on the current position. In order to change back to absolute positioning enter the command `G90` at the end of the macro. * `G1 S1`: The move command is important to allow the carriage to move to the desired location. It is vital to include the `S` parameter in this command with a value of 1 in order to enable endstop detection. Endstop detection means the printer will check if an endstop was hit. Failure to provide this parameter will crash the printer! * `G92`: This command allows you to set the value of a particular axis. This is the core command of the homing process, whenever you hit a limit switch, you can use `G92` to define the printers position. * `M208`: This command allows you to define axes limits which can then be enabled and enforced with `M564`. **Homing Procedure** With the Crane, certain physical constraints have to be taken into consideration. # Macros The QuadFusion has an input of four filaments and the ability to mix those filaments. This ability comes with a need to define the tools you wish to use for certain parts of your print. The purpose of defining these tools is if you have a predetermined ratio of these four filament that will create a desired color. The Macros come into play when you want to define these tools. You can create a Macro in the Duet Web Control: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIr1DnDnS68nKesbRm6%2F-LIr5q1wJ0buaxJMZR2B%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=d7e6f154-76a0-4dbe-a6f6-5d23040f30cc) ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIr6f227Cek6FdCMx3T%2F-LIr8GCRx6sELhAIrvAH%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=446574cc-5037-4609-99d5-5d5cf69913bc) Since the QuadFusion can mix any colors you want, it is recommended that you write your own Macro. This way you can customize the colors mix ratios to suit your preferences. The way you create a tool is the same as making one in your config.g (Check that out in the [Tool Definitions](/printing-guides/tool-definitions) guide!) Type in a `M563` command and add a `M567` command to define the mix ratio you want for this particular tool. ![This example is of a Brick Tile ](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIvCt3aI4ZwzmCxennx%2F-LIvD5ZM3ljUNCh3MR6s%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=a6855d4e-cb2a-44e1-a8e2-26ff16889fa0) Now that you have a new Macro filled with all the tools for a specific print, you can use it! You should see your newly made Macro listed in the Macros Directory. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIvCt3aI4ZwzmCxennx%2F-LIvDV1okzJ7BDxNSy3V%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=fb159926-0eb5-487f-89ff-9de770a478ca) If you click your Macro's title you will be able to enable it. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPvA6gX0E0N_lCZXH%2Fimage%20\(38\).png?generation=1533830513044935\&alt=media) Enable the Macro you have created. You should see that your tool settings have changed to suit the Macro you have just enabled. If you wish to test to see if your Macro is enabled, go to the G-Code Console section and type in:\ `M567 P0` ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgtfDQ4ySbfZgWstFc%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830477340078\&alt=media) You will be able to see the mix ratio you have designated Tool 0 to have The purpose of doing this is if you have a specific print that requires different colors with specific tools, you can create these tools in a Macro and when you're printing the printer will have the proper tools with the proper mix ratios. # Printing Guides This chapter contains guides that explains printing with the QuadFusion. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0WkZLpu4VCl5Tn" %} [Slicers and Printer Settings](/printing-guides/slicers-and-printer-settings) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJFBquAJ6IwwIgomfOE" %} [Heating & Temp Sensor](/printing-guides/heating-and-temp-sensor) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z05I7J1oce4K9JW" %} [Loading and Unloading Filament](/printing-guides/loading-and-unloading-filament) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJEvCqymunJCc8mxadX" %} [Filament Success Guide](/printing-guides/filament-success-guide) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0ZoEu6CzF0Q\_7z" %} [Filament Extrusion Rate](/printing-guides/filament-extrusion-rate) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0UPPlFPFKhu6rv" %} [Tool Definitions](/printing-guides/tool-definitions) {% endcontent-ref %} # Slicers and Printer Settings # Heating & Temp Sensor # Loading and Unloading Filament ## **Loading Filament** Once the nozzle has heated up to your desired temperature you can begin loading filament. {% hint style="info" %} A helpful tip to loading filament is to cut the filament at a slight angle. This makes it easier for the gears inside the QuadFusion to latch on to the filament. {% endhint %} Starting with Tool 0, select 20mm of filament, over a period of 1mm/sec, and then click “Extrude”. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgpjM-5myHKyxq_gW8%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830470423486\&alt=media) {% hint style="warning" %} We do not recommend loading filament faster than 1mm/sec. Loading filament quickly has been known to cause grinding and skipping. {% endhint %} Place your index finger and thumb around the filament your are loading. You should begin feeling the filament being tugged into the Quad Head, repeat this action with the remaining filaments. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUMgTFDUmbdwEyuMjL%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830478097384\&alt=media) {% hint style="info" %} If you do not feel the slight tug of the filament being pulled into your QuadFusion, check the Troubleshooting the Extruder guide for help. {% endhint %} Once all four filaments have been partially loaded into the QuadFusion, you can begin to load them each 20mm at a time until you see filament coming out of the nozzle. {% hint style="info" %} We recommend that you create a new tool that controls all the filaments, to find out how to do this go to the Tool Definitions guide. {% endhint %} ## Unloading Filament When unloading filament you will need to keep the nozzle heated. The purpose of this is to make sure when you are unloading the filament that it doesn't break when retracting. Furthermore, since your filament has already passed through your QuadFusion the gears have already made a track in the filament. This means that you are able to retract the filament at a faster pace. Thus, when retracting filament, you will want to select whichever tool you wish to start with, choose 50mm, at a pace of 15mm/sec, and click "Retract" ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIwF6KQBbvEd1ajBqYq%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830475310273\&alt=media) The filament should begin to retract at a quick pace. Repeat the same action with all the other filaments until they are completely out of the QuadFusion. {% hint style="warning" %} Do not pull the filament out unless it is stuck. Pulling on the filament can cause it to break which may lead to a jammed QuadFusion. {% endhint %} {% hint style="info" %} If the filament is not retracting, go to the Troubleshooting the Extruder guide for help. {% endhint %} # (NEW) Loading and Unloading Filament {% hint style="danger" %} ## Warning before loading: * [ ] Verify that wiring between the Duet 2 Maestro and the M3D Crane (including wiring to the QuadFusion and other printer components) is correct.
* [ ] Verify that the Duet 2 Maestro firmware is updated to the most recent version. You can find version 2.O2 release candidate [here](https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.02RC2/DuetMaestroFirmware.bin).
* [ ] In addition you can find the latest version of Duet Web Control [here](https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.02RC2/DuetWebControl-1.22.3.zip).
* [ ] Be sure to double check that the cold section fan 1 is running at full power. (This is needed for long term heatbreak cooling)
{% endhint %} ## Filament Reference Table | Filament type | Temp/Amp | | ------------- | ---------- | | PETG | 170C/400mA | | PLA | | {% hint style="warning" %} **Be sure to set the temperature to 170C** **Not doing this will cause backflow up the nozzles chambers that will block future loadings!** {% endhint %} ## Pre-loading Process * Start by cutting your filament flush. You should start with 4 new strands. **(poorly cut filament may damage PTFE or bind up in the curved path)** * Observe port labeling 0-3 and select extruder drive 0 (If unlabeled, they are in left to right order and the left most will be extruder drive 0) * Select a feed rate of 5 mm/s (any faster and it may shred the filament or cause the motor to skip) * Select a 20 mm filament feed amount ## **Loading Sequence** 1. Insert your chosen filament in to Port 0 and hold it at a curved angle. (Use the natural curve of the filament to match the curves shown below to minimize any risk of missing the curve path)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ffGJ93PifCDq5QijJ3I-Uyo-cZbjVMrkEtxqdt-sYJzzW5ijbcS4NAStR6if9kSVCmBoO__tIuZSaMj2Y6G5N5KtTZHIcLgqf2KhcxRe7MM-UZYA2F1NcbiLzVVmt4fRp6TiWyWk)
2. Press retract while pushing filament lightly in, this is to verify that things are working and that you're in the right position and chose the right port. If the filament is ticking in your hands, go ahead and press the filament towards the gear while pushing the extrude button. (You should to feel the filament grab and pull through.)
3. Lightly hold the filament in your hands and press extrude again until filament stops extruding. Repeat once mote times for a total of 60 mm fed through.
4. If at any point filament gets stuck proceed to troubleshooting (Retract and try again. TBD)
5. Repeat the above procedure for extruder drive 2 and THEN with ports 1 and 3.
## Extrusion: * Set the temp to 240C (nozzle may ooze ignore it) * Change settings to extrude all at 15mm/s and leave the extrude amount at 20mm. * Confirm your temperature is still set to 240C. * Hit extrude (Waiting between steps) until filament comes out at a steady speed. * Be sure that no motors are skipping (if they are see our troubleshooting section TBD)\
## Turning Off your machine: There are no special considerations for turning off your QuadFusion. However, keep in mind that filament should not be above temperature without motion for longer than 5 minutes, with the exception of PETG; which can handle being held at temperature in the QuadFusion for at least one day. PLA readily degrades.
## Unloading: * Set Nozzle Temperature to 170C. * Change setting to Extrude All, Extrude at 15mm/s and set the extrusion amount at 100mm * Press retract 3 times * The machine may now be turned off
# Filament Success Guide # ABS-R Follow this step by step guide for successful printing with ABS-R. ## Material Table | | First Layer | Printing | | ------------------- | ----------- | --------- | | Bed Temperature | 80-85°C | 80°C | | Nozzle Temperature | 240°C | 230-255°C | | Retraction Distance | - | - | | Retraction Speed | - | - | ## Preparation Follow the [Preparing a Print](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/preparing-a-print) guide for more help on slicing a print. Incorporate the material settings above into printing and bed temperature. ## Guide 1. Heat the bed up to ABS-R first layer temperature 2. Once the bed is hot, probe the bed with `G30` and then level the bed with `G29 S0`. Follow the [Bed Leveling & Probing](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/repair-guides/repairing-broken-belt-clamps#leveling-the-bed) guide if you need help. 3. Heat up the nozzle to printing temperature and load filament. Follow the [Loading and Unloading Filament](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/loading-and-unloading-filament#loading-filament) guide. It is best to extruder about 10 mm of filament to make sure filament is flowing through correctly. Remember to clear the extruded filament with tweezers before starting the print. 4. Upload the print to the board. For more help follow the [Running a Print](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/running-a-print) guide. ## Quality Troubleshooting Read the section below to improve the quality of your ABS-R print. The titles of the section below indicate the problems that you might see when printing ABS-R and how to solve them. **Blobbing** Blobbing can look like what is circled on the picture below: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIm-WX3ax8C5x99GL3g%2F-LIm5WPLcE1WMhl5oI6T%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=bcb26386-9c53-4a36-beb6-00e07d2e64c2) The reason blobbing occurs is because the nozzle suddenly extrudes more than usual, thus creating a "blob" in the print. One of the causes of this can be back pressure, which is more of a concern with the QuadFusion. Since there are four filaments being loaded into the QuadFusion, if they are not all in line some back pressure may occur. Thus, when you retract one of the four filaments the other three will still be experiencing pressure and may ooze out of the nozzle.\ Another cause for blobbing can be \_\_\_\_\_\_ Solution:\ While blobbing may occur for many reasons, it can be prevented with many more. For starters, make sure when you're loading your filaments that they are all in line. This has been explained in [Loading and Unloading Filament](/printing-guides/loading-and-unloading-filament).\ Another solution is to edit your slicer settings, by including the ability to retract the filament for each new layer your print is less likely to contain blobs.\ The most important solution is to calibrate your extrusion settings. Sometimes you may be over-extruding which can cause lots of problems (not just blobbing). Try fiddling around with E-Steps and find the value that works best for you! **Stringing** Stringing can look like this: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIpmRU47WoVIcXlT18c%2F-LIpmjQojo9UuL47CoWo%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=bfb32daf-4bf5-497a-a288-f3bc280b7300) Stringing is usually caused when the extruder is traveling between prints and some filament is oozing. This ooze can cause these strings which can be a real hassle to remove. Solution:\ The number one solution that we can recommend is to edit your retraction settings. When slicing your print make sure to add this function. {% hint style="info" %} In Cura, the function is under the *Material* tab and is called "Enable Retraction". {% endhint %} This function allows your extruder to retract the filament slightly whenever moving over empty space.\ One other possible reason for stringing is that your temperature is too high. With certain filaments, the higher the temperature the more liquid it becomes. Try fiddling around with the nozzle temperature to find the best fit for your filament. **Under-extrusion** Under-extrusion can look like this: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgwrjG7bazWnVC2J1z%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830479569340\&alt=media) The simplest cause for under extrusion is when your extruder is unable to supply the requested amount of filament. Solution: # PLA Follow this step by step guide for successful printing with PLA. ## Material Table | | First Layer | Printing | | ------------------- | ----------- | -------- | | Bed Temperature | 60 | 50 | | Nozzle Temperature | 220 | 215 | | Retraction Distance | | | | Retraction Speed | | | ## Preparation Follow the [Preparing a Print](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/preparing-a-print) guide for more help on slicing a print. Incorporate the material settings above into printing and bed temperature. ## Guide 1. Heat the bed up to PLA first layer temperature 2. Once the bed is hot, probe the bed with `G30` and then level the bed with `G29 S0`. Follow the [Bed Leveling & Probing](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/repair-guides/repairing-broken-belt-clamps#leveling-the-bed) guide if you need help. 3. Heat up the nozzle to printing temperature and load filament. Follow the [Loading and Unloading Filament](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/loading-and-unloading-filament#loading-filament) guide. It is best to extruder about 10 mm of filament to make sure filament is flowing through correctly. Remember to clear the extruded filament with tweezers before starting the print. 4. Upload the print to the board. For more help follow the [Running a Print](https://m3d.gitbook.io/promega-docs/getting-started/running-a-print) guide. ## Quality Troubleshooting Read the section below to improve the quality of your PLA print. The titles of the section below indicate the problems that you might see when printing PLA and how to solve them. # Filament Extrusion Rate The extrusion system on the QuadFusion is designed to print at specific speeds at certain temperatures. Printing at the proper filament extrusion rate is essential to provide a good print. The QuadFusion is designed to extrude at a rate of 5.7 mm^3/s. This number can change significantly depending on your printer and slicer settings and material. ## Calculating Filament Flow Rate Calculating the flow rate of your extruder is typically very easy. The equations you can use to calculate filament flow rate depends on your print settings and whether you are printing or not. Follow the *Extruding in Air* section to calculate the flow rate while extruding filament in the air and the *Printing Flow Rate* section in order to find the filament flow rate while printing. ### Extruding in Air When the extruder is printing filament into air, we can assume that the extruder is creating a steady stream of filament at a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the nozzle. If the extruder is not skipping, you can use the feedrate of the extruder move and the cross-section of the filament to calculate the flow rate. Because, all the filament that is being pushed by the extruder is pushed through the nozzle. Follow the equation below: *Flow Rate (mm^3/s) = Feedrate (mm/s)* (Filament Cross-section) (mm^2)\* *Filament Cross-section = pi* ((Filament Diameter) / 2)^2 \_\_Filament Cross-section for 1.75mm filament: 2.405 mm^2\* **For Example:** You send the command `G1 E100 F200`, where you extrude 100mm of filament at 200 mm/min. You are using 1.75 mm filament. *Flow Rate = 8 mm/s = pi* (1.75 / 2)^2 *(200 / 60) = 2.405* 3.333\* Remember that the `G1` move command feedrate parameter, `F`, uses mm per minute. So divide the feedrate by 60 to obtain the feedrate in mm per second. ### Printing Flow Rate When printing, the flow rate depends on your layer height, nozzle diameter and print speed. *Flow Rate (mm^3/s) = (Extrusion Width)(mm)* (Layer Height)(mm) *Print Speed (mm/s)* *Extrusion Width is \~120% of nozzle diameter* **For Example:** You have a 0.5 mm nozzle mounted and you are printing at 0.25mm layer height at a print speed of 30 mm/s. *Extrusion Width = 0.6 mm = 1.2* 0.5 *Flow Rate = 4.5 mm^3/s = 0.6* 0.25 \* 30 ## QuadFusion Flow Rate The QuadFusion is designed to extrude filament at 5.7 mm^3/s. If you find your extruder skipping or notice print quality problems, do a filament flow calculation to determine the extrusion rate you are printing at. The extrusion rate of the QuadFusion can be increased significantly depending on material, printing temperature and other factors. Feel free to experiment and push the extruder to its limits! But remember to calculate the filament flow rate to determine whether your goal is realistic. # Tool Definitions This guide will explains the default tool definitions for the QuadFusion and explains how to change tools. This can be useful to create complex mixing and switching prints. This guide is not for beginners ## Default Tool Definitions QuadFusion Tools: * `T0`: Top Left * Extruder Drive 0 * Heater 1 * `T1`: Bottom Left * Extruder Drive 1 * Heater 1 * `T2`: Bottom Right * Extruder Drive 2 * Heater 1 * `T3`: Top Right * Extruder Drive 3 * Heater 1 ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIlSbfxpWhY2C96yZbs%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830486933950\&alt=media) As seen above, the QuadFusion has four different extruder drives and two heaters. The current configuration is set-up to make all tools heated by Heater 1, while the Bed will be heated by Heater 0. ## Tool Definition Command `M563` The `M563` command allows you to define a tool, it has the following parameters: * `Pnnn` : The tool number * `S"toolname"`: The tool name * `Dnnn` : The assigned extruder drive * `Hnnn` : The assigned heater number * `Fnnn` : The fans mapped to the tool. The extruder drive numbers start from 0 and immediately follow the X, Y and Z axes stepper motor drives on the Duet Board. You can configure the order of these drives with the `M584` command. If you were looking at your tools in the config.g, they would look like this: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJPk8Dkq86LFsI76LTb%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830482747473\&alt=media) ## Defining Your Own Tools Defining your own tools is useful to create prints that switch colors in the middle of a print. To define a new tool enter the `M563` command in the configuration file, then follow it with the extruder drive and heater number that you would like to use. Such as: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIgunRY9tqPVNEVZjPv%2F-LIgvZOPDv72eKbMhcYE%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=51f98c4d-59ea-4c74-b720-979691af0f0e) ## Mixing Ratios To enable mixing rations for ta specific tool. Enter the `M568` command with the tool number (`Pnnn` ) and the enable parameter (`Snnn` ). For example, if I wanted to enable tool mixing for tool 3 I would enter the command `M568 P3 S1` . To configure the actual tool mixing ratio, use the `M567` command. This will tell the firmware to use one stepper motor drive to move more than the other one when handling an extruder move. `M567 Pnnn Emmm:kkk:llll:iii` where `nnn` represents the tool number. And the rest of the letters the tool ratios of the specific extruder drives. The total of the `mmm, kkk, llll and iii` parameters should add up to 1 in order to produce a normal and expected extrusion flow rate. ## Additional Resources * [Duet 3D Wiki `M563` ](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M563_Define_or_remove_a_tool) * [Duet 3D Wiki `M567`](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M567_Set_tool_mix_ratios) * [Duet 3D Wiki `M568`](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M568_Turn_off_on_tool_mix_ratios) # Color Printing This guide aims to help with color printing using the QuadFusion. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJPd7uMKy8VRtY-A4u-" %} [Setting Up](/color-printing/setting-up) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJPd8YlnVg3YrMAhSRS" %} [Broken mention](broken://pages/-LJPd8YlnVg3YrMAhSRS) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJPvORv7g4nrjbdtk0y" %} [Slic3r Multi-Material](/color-printing/slic3r-multi-material) {% endcontent-ref %} # Setting Up In order to print with the QuadFusion you'll need a plugin on Cura called MELT. MELT is helpful for individual layer color printing and gradient printing. This guide will assume you have already installed Cura. **Instructions for downloading MELT:** Go to: \ Click “Download Zip” ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJPCmKwQXhm9Ew6DYve%2F-LJPfNRvqKcPdQ1pNwug%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=adf07f4a-ff97-4c01-b878-120a1ec13a7f) Once you have downloaded the Zip file, go to your Local Disk → Program Files → Ultimaker Cura 3.3 → Plugins → Post Processing Plugin → Scripts Once in Scripts, copy the MELT.py file, from when you downloaded MELT, into this folder. You should now be able to use MELT when using Cura ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJPCmKwQXhm9Ew6DYve%2F-LJPgCZRDmss4UYBT_5e%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=5f787e00-e66a-4dfb-977c-9988ba72dc90) You can check to see if this plugin is now in Cura by opening a new Cura page and looking under Extensions --> Post Processing --> Modify G-Code ![https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651015/files](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPsehPorYOgCtNHyC%2Fimage%20\(98\).png?generation=1533830467242685\&alt=media) Next, look under the drop down tab and see if "Multi-Extruder Layering Tool 3.4.0 (MELT)" is there. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJQ3B3qn3vNyrTl3fQl%2F-LJQ5hu7p9gKH72OWTiQ%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=3eb7bab7-e626-4c3e-8f6b-472c7e98046b) # MELT This guide will go through step-by-step on how to print a simple gradient design using MELT. This guide will assume you have already downloaded MELT, and have picked your own print file. To start, open you file up in Cura and selct Extensions --> Post Processing --> Modify G-Code ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUSudxHtPZwBoPNnk5%2F-LJUTK1W19_iq3Nw6ewN%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=d5305fb6-c03d-4878-a4e0-e45be96030f2) Next you will want to select the drop down tab "Add a Script" ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUSudxHtPZwBoPNnk5%2F-LJUToJjYlNK47rq6M92%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=0e63a49b-050d-4920-a504-cf058c832771) Select "Multi-Extruder Layering Tool 3.4.0 (MELT)" ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUSudxHtPZwBoPNnk5%2F-LJUTy27EmDix6vtrO0Z%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=8f97e422-db9a-452a-b9ed-5da50f95d3c3) Based upon your file you will want to edit your basic settings to fit your print. Below is how the settings were altered for this example print: ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUUWTf3NvP9O1FJz96%2F-LJUUkVrJErVTXlyUHhq%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=5efaaf12-90ed-4d09-b3fb-4db6be15e718) **Settings Explained:**\ *Number of Extruders:*\ This setting declares how many filaments you wish to use. With the QuadFusion, you can select up to all four filaments.\ *Shifting Clamp Type:*\ You can decided whether you want to print in gradient based on the layer number of your file, or the percentage of your file.\ *Extrusion # Start:*\ This instruct the printer to begin the gradient at a certain layer number or a certain percentage of your file.\ *Extrusion # End:*\ This instruct the printer to end the gradient at a certain layer number or a certain percentage of your file.\ *Shift Frequency:*\ This instructs your printer how fast or slow you want it to take to transition to the next gradient ratio. Next, you will want to select "Expert Controls" and "Enable Initial Setup". ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUUWTf3NvP9O1FJz96%2F-LJUW-6LpXQTxc32nf0S%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=c44597a6-fee0-400b-a80d-75e2396b87eb) **Settings Explained:**\ *Define Tool:*\ This section is a `M563` command designed so the user can specifically select which drive they wish to have used when printing gradient. (e.g. In the example above, by using Drives 0,1,2, and 3, all four filaments will be extruded in gradient).\ *Initial Main Flow:*\ This instructs the printer what ratio it should begin the print (e.g. In the example above, the printer will begin with printing 100% of Drive 0)\ *Final Main Flow:*\ This instructs the printer what ratio it should end the print (e.g. In the example above, the printer will end with printing 100% of Drive 3) From this point on you can edit your slicer settings however you see fit. # Slic3r Multi-Material {% hint style="info" %} Support for multi-color printing in common slicers is often limited to specific purposes or capabilities. In this guide, we use Slic3r Prusa Edition and an M3D-developed script to make the generated G-Code compatible with a QuadFusion-enabled printer. As slicer capabilities improve, this guide will be updated and the process will be simplified. {% endhint %} ## You Will Need Slic3r Prusa Edition (link) NOTE: have been using 1.39.1 M3D Cleanup Script (link) IPython Notebook or equivalent, such as Jupyter Notebook (link) ## Find (or Create) Multi-Part STL Set ## ## Slice and Export #### Load and Adjust Print Settings #### Assign Tool Numbers ## Manual Cleanup Step ## Automated Cleanup Script Take the .gcode file from the prior step and move it to your IPython working folder. For example, on my system, these files are held in \~/Documents/Workspaces/\_python. For this example, I moved the file "ed\_MAN1\_tower-of-cascades.gcode" to \~/Documents/Workspaces/\_python/Working. ("Working" has been a convenient folder to hold the .gcode files separate from the actual IPython script file(s).) Launch IPython Notebook and load the script titled "PostprocSPEForColor4\_auto.ipynb". Run the first three blocks of code. (The first is a short block defining "clamp" and nothing else; the next are much longer.) In the fourth code block, there is a note on values you will need to change for your particular job. Adjust these values to your particular job. First layer and other layer height are from your slicer setup. The in file is the file you created in the prior step. The out file is the .gcode file that will be created by the cleanup script and sent to the printer. A large number of diagnostics messages will output when this code block is run. TODO: in main -- find "def main():" # Troubleshooting Guides The guides in this chapter are intended as generic troubleshooting guides for specific components or functionalities of the QuadFusion. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0hSF4lScv-A-qj" %} [Troubleshooting Duet Web Console](/troubleshooting-guides/troubleshooting-duet-web-console) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LJFBxfiTyAHhvEvSiGj" %} [My Drives / Tools are Backwards](/troubleshooting-guides/my-drives-tools-are-backwards) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0iUVGWqTMzDMK\_" %} [Heater Troubleshooting](/troubleshooting-guides/heater-troubleshooting) {% endcontent-ref %} # Troubleshooting Duet Web Console This guide will walk through possible problems that can be encountered while connecting to the Duet Web Console. ## Rejected by the Duet ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtdZT324B5I9Q_Nz%2Frejectedbytheduet.png?generation=1532553047464816\&alt=media) ### Problem When attempting to connect to the Crane the error "Your Duet rejected the HTTP request: page not found" is shown. This indicates that the web pages of the Duet web server can not be loaded from the SD card. Usually the problem lies in the SD card not being properly mounted to the system. This can happen if you ejected the SD card and then put it back into the Duet board while it was powered. ### Solution * Reboot the Duet Maestro board with the microSD card properly fitted inside. * Reformat the microSD card. * [Update the microSD card files.](/getting-started/updating-control-board-settings) * [Update the Duet Web Firmware.](/getting-started/updating-firmware) ## Frequent Disconnects from the Duet Web Console ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGtdaZi_L7cdixknr%2Fduetdisconnected.jpg?generation=1532553051662544\&alt=media) ### Problem When working with the Duet Web Console there are frequent disconnects with the Duet Web Console. ### Solutions * Ensure that your computer has a proper connection to the local network. It is possible that the Duet is not disconnected from the network but your computer is. * Ensure that the Duet has a proper connection to your local network. * [Try configuring a static IP address](broken://pages/-LII7Z0-cJCiwi0-7cRl). It is possible that the router is continuously changing the IP address of your Crane. * Go to *Settings > General* on the Duet Web Console and increase the *Status Update Interval* and *Maximum Number of AJAX Retries*. # My Drives / Tools are Backwards # Heater Troubleshooting This guide serves to fix any problems you might have with the heater cartridge or PT1000. ## PT1000 Problems ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPwDK8628uPg-fu4G%2Fimage%20\(29\).png?generation=1533830484955944\&alt=media) The PT1000, or thermistor, is what reads the temperature of the heater block and relays the information onto the Duet Web Control. ### **Possible Problem(s):** **Not Reading Temperature:**\ This is assuming that whenever you attempt to to heat your extruder the thermistor doesn't read any value which results in a heater fault. It is very likely that the issue here lies within your printer's settings. **Solution:** {% hint style="info" %} This solution is more directed towards Crane users. If you have a different printer, you may need to tweak some things. {% endhint %} Go into Settings, System Editor, and under config.g go to the Heater section: `;Heaters M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R2200 ;Set thermistor+ADC parameters for heater 0 M143 H0 S120 ;Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C M305 P1 X501 T1050 R2200 ;Set themistor+ADC parameters for heater 1 M143 H1 S280 ;Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C` Try changing the values to match what is above, look under [Heating & Temp Sensor](/troubleshooting-guides/heater-troubleshooting) guide to fully understand what each letter means. ## Heater Problems ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIrAd3Ld8HY1POy-KpP%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830479865111\&alt=media) ### Possible Problem(s): **Heater Faults:**\ When trying to heat up your nozzle, if you receive a heater fault there can be a few reasons. The first possibility is that your printer's settings have been set up to expect that your heater will heat faster than it is able to. The second possibility is that your heater is not heating. **Solution:**\ The first reason for a heater fault can be solved by editing your printer settings. Go into Settings, System Editor, and under config.g go to the Heater section: **Loose Connection:**\ It is possible when setting up your QuadFusion that the Heater wire was bent. The pins in the connector may have gotten loose, which is causing your heater to heat poorly. You may be able to identify this issue by trying to heat your nozzle and wiggling the heater wire. If you get a similar result as the picture below, you have a loose connection: ![Image pulled from: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/4966/highly-erratic-temperature-readings-above-certain-temperature ](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIq1svIHBumm5dUy5R8%2F-LIq5d3iy_mLf3FccnJW%2Fimage.png?alt=media\&token=db8b7ce5-d35c-4d2e-87c1-3696cc6b6869) As you can see the red line is no longer steadily rising, but has begun to move exaggeratedly. **Solution:**\ There are two solutions, the first being replace your heater wire entirely. Unless you have the means for the second option, this is by far the least tedious. # Maintenance Guides This chapter contains guides that explain how to preform maintenance on the QuadFusion. {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0eXXlITTkAOcTH" %} [What You'll Need](/maintenance-guides/screw-and-tool-list) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0cECaxavXenPF7" %} [Temperature Calibration](/maintenance-guides/temperature-calibration) {% endcontent-ref %} {% content-ref url="/pages/-LII7Z0fiRoIj5GIuTHm" %} [Changing Nozzles](/maintenance-guides/changing-nozzles) {% endcontent-ref %} # What You'll Need This guide contains a list of different screws and tools used for each assembly of the QuadFusion and its fans. Look under the tool's header for each assembly to see all the possible tools you will need to maintain, assemble or repair the QuadFusion or its fans . Look under the screws category to view a more in-depth list of the screw types and their location. ## Brief Overview ### All Tools * T-10 Torx Screwdriver * T-6 Torx Screwdriver * 2.5 mm Hex * 1.3 mm Hex * Pliers * Needle-nose pliers ### All Screws * Hot-end Block Set screws: 1.3 mm Hex * Fan mount: T-10 Torx * Fan Duct: T-6 Torx * QuadFusion: T-10 Torx and 2.5 mm Hex\* * \*The 2.5mm Hex screw may vary based on how you are mounting your QuadFusion. Go to the [Mounting the Hardware](broken://pages/-LII7Z0-cJCiwi0-7cRl) guide for more information. ## Detailed List ### QuadFusion Assembly **Tools** * T-10 Torx * 2.5 mm Hex **Screws** **2.5 mm Hex:** * Mounting Quad (bottom) **T-10 Torx:** * Mounting Quad (top) * Nozzle Screw ### Hot-end Assembly #### Tools * 1.3 mm Hex * Pliers #### Screws **1.3 mm Hex**: * PT1000 Setscrew * Heater Cartridge Setscrew * Nozzle Setscrew ### Fan Mount Assembly **Tools** * T-10 Torx * T-6 Torx **Screws** **T-10 Torx:** * Fan Mounts **T-6 Torx:** * Fan Ducts # Temperature Calibration Proper temperature calibration is vital to allow for good print quality. The hot-end and the bed are controlled by temperature feedback loops which are supposed to maintain a steady temperature. The type of feedback loop is a first order plus dead time ([FOPDT](https://controlguru.com/process-data-dynamic-modeling-and-a-recipe-for-profitable-control/)) loop. This loop has three different control variables: 1. Gain: Kp: Allows for manipulation of the strength of the heater response. 2. Time Constant: Tp: Control of the speed of the response of the heater. 3. Dead time: The delay before the system will begin a response. This control loop and its variables are applied to the different heaters on the Crane. With the command `M303` and `M307` the temperature control loop can be tuned and changed. The default control variables supplied by M3D in the configuration files should allow you to print at a stable temperature. However, significant changes to the printing environment, such as room temperature, air-flow or humidity can impact your control loop effectiveness and stability. An improper control loop can cause problems listed below. * **Overshoot**: A response to a new set-point will send the temperature of the heater significantly beyond the set-point. An overshoot of about 15°C is reasonable. A greater overshoot can cause your filament to char or present a fire hazard. * **Oscillation**: An unstable control loop can result in a temperature oscillation. An oscillation of more than 5 °C degrees can impact printing quality. * **Steady-state Error**: The stable temperature output of the control loop does not reflect the temperature set-point. * **Long Response Timer**: The heater will take a long time to achieve the desired set-point. While not dangerous, this can be an annoying and unnecessary delay. ## Auto-tuning RepRap firmware has a built in auto-tune heater function. This allows you to tune the control loop of a heater on the Crane. Follow the section below! {% hint style="warning" %} **The auto-tune function can rapidly heat your hot-end(s) to a high temperature. DO NOT leave your printer unattended while running** `M303` {% endhint %} **Overview** The command `M303` will heat-up your hot-end to a set-point temperature and record data as it does so. Therefore, while your hot-end is undergoing it is important to replicate the conditions that your 3D printer prints in. For example, turning on your nozzle fans. First, the tuning process will heat the hot-end to your set temperature. It will likely overshoot the set-point. The nozzle will then cool-down to room temperature. If you instructed the control board to perform multiple cycles, it will repeat this process multiple times. Once complete, the firmware will return suggested control variable values. `M303` Parameters: * `Hnnn`: Heater number (by default: 0 is bed, 1 & 2 hot-ends) * `Pnnn`: PWM percentage from 0 to 1. * `Snnn`: Set-point temperature in °C `M307` Parameters: * `Hnnn`: Heater number (by default: 0 is bed, 1 & 2 hot-ends) * `Annn`: Gain constant * `Cnnn`: Time constant * `Dnnn`: Dead time * `Fnnn`: PWM frequency * `Bn`: Bang-bang control enable (1) * `Snnn`: Maximum PWM * `Vnnn`: Vin at the time of calibration. Allows for compensation of power supply voltage variation. * Unload the filament from your hot-end. Once you are more familiar with the `M303` command, this step is not necessary. We recommend removing filament as it can burn and char inside your hot-end if the tuning process reaches a high temperature. * Wait for the heater to reach room temperature. **This is important to achieve a good result!** * Send the `M303` command. Change the `H` parameter to reflect the heater number. The PWM percentage can be changed with `P` if the heater is heating up too fast, and the firmware is unable to present control variables. The `S` parameter should be set to a typical printing temperature, such as 230°C. An example would be `M303 H1 P0.5 S230` in order to run auto-tune on hot-end 1, with 50% PWM and to 230°C. * Wait for auto-tune to complete. Do not leave the printer unattended. * The firmware should print out the calculated control variables. Sending `M303` should also display the control variables. * Use the `M307` command in order to set new control variables. Use the parameter list above to determine the proper syntax. * Remember to replace the `M307` command in the configuration file *config.g* with the command you just entered in order for your changes to take effect upon a system restart. ## Legacy PID Control RepRap firmware also allows for control of the heaters with basic PID with three different constants: Kp, Ki, Kd. Use the command `M301` in order to send enable and send these control variables. These control variables also can be found by running the `M303` auto-tune as listed above. The command `M301` will enable the legacy PID control loop. `M301` Parameters: * `Hnnn`: Heater number * `Pnnn`: Proportional constant (Kp) * `Innn`: Integral constant (Ki) * `Dnnn`: Derivative constant (Kd) ## Manually Tuning Manually tuning your control variables can be done. Read more about the control variables explained in this guide online and their effects on a control loop before changing your control variables. Manually tuning your control variables is often a great option to reduce or obstruct observed errors as the ones listed above. **Tuning your control loop from scratch is not recommended!** Be careful when changing your control variables as it could easily produce unintended consequences # Changing Nozzles this guide has been updated: please see this video as the content below is outdated. Follow the steps below in order to mount a new nozzle on your 3D printer. {% hint style="warning" %} **Follow the steps listed in the guide closely. You will be working with heated hot-ends. Use appropriate tools.** {% endhint %} Some of the following steps have to be performed with a heated hot-end in order to allow you to slide out and replace the nozzle. If you don't heat your nozzle cooled filament will act like glue and hold the components together. If you have an exceptionally clean or new nozzle then heating is not required 1. Connect to the Duet Web Console. 2. Heat-up the nozzle and retract any filament inside. 3. **Keep the nozzle hot for the next steps!** 4. Remove the front fan from the QuadFusion by unscrewing the circled screws ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LIgrRqv4l3QzQeYl-Ku%2Fimage.png?generation=1533830480276604\&alt=media) 1. Next, **loosen** the circled screws. Some QuadFusions may not be mounted the same way. Go to [Mounting the Hardware](/maintenance-guides/changing-nozzles) for more in depth mount information on certain printers. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LJUPr2v9p9qU6Qy3RjC%2F-LJUPtb9ZAmpFUbiYtcF%2Fimage%20\(94\).png?generation=1533830475044759\&alt=media) 1. Remove the set-screw holding the nozzle and heater block in place. Carefully retract them using pliers. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGvcf2kYo-mrKHLFG%2Fhowtoholdcompound.jpg?generation=1532553068711516\&alt=media) 2. Slide the heater block and cold-section out of the extruder with the pliers. 3. Remove the screw indicated in the image below, this holds the nozzle inside the heater block. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGvclEo-xCpg34S_y%2Fremovenozzlesetscrew.jpg?generation=1532553066115121\&alt=media) 4. With another pair of pliers, carefully pull out the nozzle from the heater block. 5. Place the **hot** nozzle on a heat-resistant surface. If you have a glass bed, you can place the nozzle on there. 6. With the pliers, grab the new nozzle and place it into the heater block, pay attention to the orientation of the nozzle. The dimple should face the set-screw in the heater block. This keeps the heater block in place during operation. ![](https://2282317355-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LII7Hz86SjDh6Ik_2d4%2F-LIIGs9AFqwrkzN5yNKp%2F-LIIGvcnsPpktysrTtpA%2Fnozzle-dimple.jpg?generation=1532553066270773\&alt=media) 7. Tighten down the setscrew that holds the nozzle in place. 8. Place the nozzle, with the heater block attached, back into the extruder. 9. Tighten down the setscrews and any other screw you were instructed to loosen. 10. **You can now power off the heater.** 11. You can attach the front fan again and continue printing! # Community Guides This page serves as a future place for community guides. If you have a great idea, procedure or guide that you want to share. Create a pull request on the [M3D QuadFusion Docs repository](https://github.com/PrintM3D/Crane-Docs). **(Change URL)** # Community Guide Template Insert your guide here!